After fun conversations with our B&B host, we set off a good half hour later than planned. No biggie as the ferry says they sail 3 times per hour and can't give any exact schedule.
We visited Culdaff Beach before heading over the hills towards Lough Foyle. The roads were quiet and one indicated that it was blocked. So, we tried the French thing - even if it says blocked or closed, sometimes a bicycle can get through. We did - the road construction crew flagged us past. Then we rolled into the ferry pier and the ferry was sitting there already loaded with the 4 cars and camping car waiting. We walked (more like slipped) and parked the bike and went upstairs to look around. It was another short (10 minute) crossing to Northern Ireland.
We walked out to the end of the boardwalk at Culdaff Beach.
I'm not sure how I feel about Northern Ireland yet. After spending 5 idyllic weeks in the Republic of Ireland, our introduction to NI is a bit off. 1) The pier facilities were closed - as in no toilets, 2) then we rode through military testing grounds with barbed wire fencing and dire warning signs everywhere, and 3) then we noticed the tall walls and massive barb wires of the prison we rode by. Nice welcome! However, Tombstone, Arizona put a smile on our face.
We couldn't ride past and not stop to check it out, especially since I grew up in Arizona.
We came across the Lion's Gate entrance to Downhill Demesne and turned in. This property is part of the National Trust and it was massive. It included an old mansion, its walled gardens, a dovecote with icehouse, and a temple. After spending time walking through the property we set off once again only to stop after a kilometer at Bishop's Gate, the other entrance to the property.
It's very hard to describe how huge this mansion must have been. We walked thru a drawing room, dining room, library, and what we guessed may have been kitchens.
Bishop's Gate. This property looked amazing and you can walk to the manor house from here. However, we felt a bit pushed for time and continued on instead.
We set off once again and then the day went downhill rapidly. As we were motoring along at a nice comfortable clip, bang! Broken spoke. Removed the spoke and continued into the City of Coleraine. We arrived as school was getting out; there were lot of kids walking in the bike lane, lots of double decker buses parked in the bike lane, lots of traffic trying to cross the river. It is a large city with only 2 bridges. As we were crossing the bridge- flat rear tire and it's raining. We found cover nearby and changed the flat replacing it with our last good tube. Walked 10 minutes to the bike shop to have them finish pumping it up - no bike shop there anymore. We were satisfied with the pressure we achieved with the hand pump and decided to keep riding. We rode through Portstewart and into Portrush along the bike path next to the busy road. Another flat tire! We found shelter from the wind behind a restaurant and patched a couple of tubes and fixed the flat. Now it is almost 6 pm and we still have about an hour to go. No bike shops anywhere nearby. Sigh! We set off and continued along the route.
This three masted sailing ship was anchored in the bay at Portrush.
We stopped to admire the White Rocks and Dunluce Castle at a wayside. A sweet Irish lady asked us about our bike - if we had brought it with us. We said yes. She said her daughter from Oregon was wondering. Now her daughter walked over and I asked her where she was from in Oregon. She replied near Roseburg. I asked her where again. She said "it's small - Sutherlin". I said we were from Bend and my folks had lived in Roseburg. Small world! She was over here visiting her parents.
We pulled in to Portcaman House B&B about 7 pm to find an envelope with our room key. We called the host to ask about bike parking and where we can get dinner at this late hour. We're settled, bathed, and fed now. Here's hoping the NI is better tomorrow.
Day 38: Culdaff, Ireland to Bushmills, Northern Ireland
Note to ourselves: It was warm-ish this morning, but heavy cloud cover. Riding across Ireland to the ferry the air felt warm. Once we got off the ferry in NI, it felt quite a bit cooler. When we stopped at Lion's Gate, it started sprinkling. Rain started while we were fighting traffic in Coleraine. We wore light rain jackets only with arms and vests. Later we put on the waterproof shoe covers. Arrived dry.
Accommodation: Portcaman House B&B is a great place to stay. The room was very comfortable. Robert was a lot of fun to talk with and he even brought a floor pump for us to use. We'd stay here again for sure. Dinner at Bushmills Inn was delicious.
