Day 3: Goleen to Glengarriff - Slowly Pedaling the Emerald Isle - CycleBlaze

May 17, 2024

Day 3: Goleen to Glengarriff

Mizen Head Visit - The most southwesterly tip of Ireland

Under cloud covered skies we set off from the cozy B&B skirting along the bay.  Today's weather indicates almost dry, but overcast, cooler, and headwinds.  After an easy 14 kilometers we came to Mizen Head.  This point is the most southwesterly tip of Ireland and was a goal of ours to visit it.  I had heard about an annual event called Mizen to Malin . . . the south of Ireland to the most northerly point.  This began our research for this route.  However, that event is done in 10 days (give or take) and doesn't cover all the area we are planning to visit.  It feels good to accomplish goal #1 - visiting Mizen Head.

Day 3 begins with a friendly send-off from some other American guests.
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The clouds are fairly dark and dampen what should be a colorful scene.
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Further along the clouds lighten . . . actually it is forever changing all day.
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As far as I am concerned, this is the best captain around.
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Arriving in the parking lot at Mizen Head, we can see the paths and stairs.
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The bridge across the gorge to the island where the signal house was built.
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Looking down into the gorge from the bridge.
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Looking through the gorge to the next inlet.
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Incredible colors. We saw a whale breach out from this point.
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The geology is amazing. Our pictures just don't do justice to these cliffs.
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We spent a good hour walking around and scaling the 200+ stairs (in cycling shoes).  We spotted a couple of sharks and were fortunate to see a whale surface.  As we were leaving some sprinkles began to fall.  Not enough, nor did it last long enough, to make us put on rain jackets.  

We continued along tiny back roads going up and over ridges on the peninsulas.  We're happy there are only 5 official climbs today and the first 3 were quite easy.  The 4th one was long, but full of varied scenery.

Very quiet roads. We probably came across 2 cars on it which surprised us. They'd pull over and we would continue on.
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The hillside was ever so lumpy.
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I just had to stop and take some photos.
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Once we reached the top, we were rewarded with this view that stretched forever. Can you imagine it on a clear day?
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The next 30 kilometers or so were fairly easy and we felt like we were flying along for the first time on this trip.  It truly was the first stretch that was flat; the last two days were either up or down.  We enjoyed the respite.

We were pedaling along and came around a corner to this site. One map indicates that it is Dunmanus Castle and another indicates it is Dunlough Castle. Take your pick. There was no signage and no access to it.
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Further along we saw the remains of Dunbeacon Castle.
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We still had one climb left to do and it was the big one for the day.  As we left a village we passed this building that had a sign on it "The Forge". 

Check out the "driveway" of The Forge.
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This climb was interesting as we had short steep inclines, followed by flat sections and a small scattering of properties that remind me of ranches in the western US (except much greener).  A field of sheep here; a field of cows there.  One section of this stretch we commented to each other that we felt we were in the middle of nowhere.  Shortly after, the road tilted up again and the views were amazing.

The views from this climb made all the effort worthwhile.
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Once again we've topped out of the ridge on the next peninsula. We're headed down there somewhere!
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rod dayWhat an amazing view!
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7 months ago

I do need to have a conversation with our route planner.  The last 17 kilometers from Bantry to Glengarriff need to be rerouted.  We were on a main Wild Atlantic Way highway with heavy traffic.  So if anyone following is consider this route - make a change here.

We arrived at our accommodations, Island View Bed & Breakfast.  Chuck reminded me that if the word "view" is in the name, then chances are good that it's on a hill.  That it is!  One on REALLY steep hill.  It's only 100 meters up the road.  I'm not sure of the definition of up - does that mean distance or elevation.  In this case I'm sure it was both.

Our overnight accommodations that were up a very steep street. Very comfortable and a delicious breakfast.
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We walked into town for a good dinner at Casey's Pub:  Guinness Beef Pie washed down with a Beamish stout.  Afterwards we walked to the Blue Pool and out to Seal Point.  The tide was out, so the pool wasn't so blue and we didn't spot any seals.  Some of the vegetation here must be on steroids.  The rhododendrons come in several shades of purples, pinks, reds, and yellows.  They seem to grow like weeds and cover hillsides and islands.  Some must be 20 feet tall or more.  And then there is the Chilean rhubarb (aka Giant rhubarb).

Rhododendron
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The Blue Pool and the far side is solid rhododendrons.
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rod dayAre they rhododendrons or are they azaleas?
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7 months ago
These are at least 20 feet tall growing sideways off the hillside.
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Those islands in the harbor are covered in rhododendrons.
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Giant rhubarb
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Mo SchwartzIn Chile, the leaves are used to wrap food before placing on hot coals to cook. It is a traditional meal on Chiloe Island.
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7 months ago
Sanna PhinneyTo Mo SchwartzVery interesting. Do they eat it then? Or just unwrap and discard?
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7 months ago
Spiny! Don't think I'll be eating any of these!
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Another great day cycling in Ireland.

Day 3: Goleen to Glengarriff
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Note to selves:  No rain jackets today!

Accommodation:  Island View B&B was pleasant enough.  Room was spacious and Imelda was very sweet.  Breakfast was good.  The problem with this place is that it is up a STEEP incline.  We would stay here again.  It's an easy walk into town for dinner.  Tandem storage in their garage was not a problem.

Today's ride: 78 km (48 miles)
Total: 243 km (151 miles)

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