Day 10: Killorglin to Dingle - Slowly Pedaling the Emerald Isle - CycleBlaze

May 24, 2024

Day 10: Killorglin to Dingle

Decisions, decisions . . . weather will be changing . . .

We woke to overcast skies and very cool temps - 10 degrees Celsius - and the weather indicates all day will be a bit windy (side wind) and chilly.  Since there is no breakfast being offered in this B&(no)B, we bundled up, loaded the tandem, and set off early to town in search of a cafe.  We found a sweet little coffee shop with just one person working.  We ordered our oatmeal, crepe, French toast, and chai lattes. It was a sweet little breakfast and hit the spot perfectly before today's short ride to Dingle. 

Setting off from Torine House in search of a cafe for breakfast.
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Our plan is to ride to Dingle today while exploring the sites along the way.  Tomorrow we will ride the Dingle Peninsula Loop.  Both are short routes with each being less than 60 kilometers.   Riding along the south side of the Dingle Peninsula we were exposed to views from yesterday's route along the north side of the Inveragh Peninsula.

I wanted to take a photo of the Iveragh Peninsula and asked Chuck to pull over when he found a spot. This is where he found it. Mom and babe are resting on top of the dirt pile.
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Looking across the ocean at Iveragh Peninsula and the McGillicuddy Reeks (the mountains). Apparently the tallest peak in McGillicuddy is the tallest peak in Ireland.
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rod dayTall? 1030m!
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4 months ago
Sanna PhinneyTo rod dayTall for this island. You can’t compare to our mountains at home. We’re riding over Connor’s Pass tomorrow.
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4 months ago
rod dayTo Sanna PhinneyBy the time you get this you will have done it. We drove over & it is wonderful
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4 months ago
rod dayTo Sanna PhinneyBy the time you get this you will have done it. We drove over & it is wonderful
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4 months ago
The clouds are beginning to lift as we continue westward on Dingle Peninsula.
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We stopped at Inch Beach to check it out.
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A view point overlooking Inch Beach. We had a great conversation with a group of French motorbikes.
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Looking out towards the open waters of the Atlantic with the tips of both peninsulas.
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It's really turning into a nice day. The wind still has a bite to it.
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Our planned route went inland and upwards, but at this point we had made a major decision.  Tomorrow's weather is cold, wet, and extremely windy.  Since our planned ride is a loop from Dingle where we're staying two nights, we don't have to ride tomorrow.  However, we want to see the sites along that particular loop.  What to do?!!  Well, it was simple . . . we arranged to drop our bags off at the B&B in Dingle and continue to do Day 11's route today.  So, when the planned route headed inland and uphill, we decided to take the shorter way and stay on the main road.  But a kilometer or two later there was a Eurovelo Route 1 sign headed towards the coastline.  And we followed it.  We ran into steep uphills, but enjoyed a quiet road.

To our delight we stumbled across Min Aird Castle.
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A closer look . . . but we're pushing for time, so we didn't hike up to it. The signs say stay away from the unstable dwelling, too.
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We arrived at the Captain's House, our B&B, and dropped off our panniers about 1:00 pm. We chatted with the host, Mary, about what to do with the tandem when we return and then we set off for the modified route of the Dingle Peninsula that we had created (think "shortened" version).  By now the skies were blue and the sun was shining brightly.  It was warmer than the predicted 13 degrees Celsius.  The road has narrowed to a bit more than one car width with traffic flowing in both directions.  The traffic is very minor.  It has become a beautiful day, but we are still wearing arm & knee warmers and vests because of the cold wind.  The wind is mostly a tailwind for us this afternoon.

All of our views seem to be scenes of startling greens and blues.
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We're head to Slea Head at the tip of Dingle Peninsula, and we have a great spotting of the Skelligs out yonder.
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More idyllic scenery that seems to be everywhere in southwest Ireland.
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We were sailing along the hillside and we came to a very sharp lefthand corner.  The tandem came to a quick stop - a water crossing on rocks that we could't ride even if they were dry.  Thankfully there was a cement section on the right hand side of the road.  The cars that came behind us came to a stop before crossing it, too.  Luckily, we were able to keep our feet dry, too.  

Chuck jumping across the water.
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An attempt to get a close up of the corner. A coach (bus) was coming so we waited to let it get in front of us. It took a long time making the corner and had to use its lifts. I don't understand how such big vehicles can maneuver on such small roads!
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The view point at Slea Head was busy, but understandably so.  The views were worth the stop.

That's the Great Blasket Island. We were planning on taking the ferry out to it tomorrow and hike around, but the weather will keep us holed up instead.
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It's turning into such a great day on the bike. Should we alter the route again?
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Stellar views. We're headed to that tiny beach, Dunmore Head.
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The white sands make for colorful waters of the Atlantic.  This is Dunmore Head.  We actually rode down to where the roads ends on the beach.  

The waves create the dark lines.
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Oh what I'd give to go jump in the water! But it's just too cold out today.
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Our next stop was at Dun Quin Pier where one can catch the ferry to the Great Blasket Island.  We fell for the sign saying "Coffee and the best brownie I've ever eaten".  We basked in the sun munching on the shared brownie with our coffee and chai.  It really was one of the best brownies we have ever eaten.

I think we forgot the sunscreen today since we were expecting overcast all day. We had red noses by the end of the day.
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rod dayWe sat right here on these same 2 chairs! Had the coffee but not the brownies. Sorry now that we missed out!
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4 months ago
A peek over the cliff edge. The ferry comes in just around that corner.
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That island is called "Dead Man". Some also call it the Sleeping Giant. It is one of the many islands that make up the Blaskets.
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We continued on and now we've ditched the Garmin shortcut tracks and we're doing the entire Day 11 route.  The weather is perfect, albeit a bit of a cold wind, and we feel good.  We won't be riding at all tomorrow, so why not?!!

It doesn't get old looking at views like this!
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Those three pointed peaks are interesting. The flat land raises up as it hits the ocean. Cliffs dominate the other side of those points. The land just drops off. But why did the land rise? And why did it rise to points?
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Our first sighting of the belted Galways - we first discovered these cows in New Zealand.
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And there's always one that will pose for us.
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When we summited the final climb of the day, I had to take a picture of where we'd been . . .
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And where we were going.
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The captain patiently waiting for me.
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We combined 2 days routes into one so we wouldn't miss out on the things to see in this part of the country.  It was a good decision.  After a shower and putting a tub of laundry into the washer (yes, our accommodations has a washing machine) we set off to find some well-earned dinner.  We ate at Ashe's and it was delicious - prawn risotto for Chuck and a mushroom risotto for me.  

And then there was Chuck's sticky toffee pudding dessert. Absolutely the best!!
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rod dayI was only thinking last night that you hadn't put any photos of your dinners (unless I missed them)
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4 months ago
Sanna PhinneyI always forget to take the food cam shots. I must try to remember.
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4 months ago
On our walk after dinner, we discovered this bar. Chuck must check it out tomorrow. One window front is that of a hardware store and the other window front was full of cycling items.
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Day 10: Killorglin to Dingle plus the Dingle Peninsula Loop.
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Note to ourselves:  No rain once again!  Sunshine was a welcomed surprise.

Accommodation:  The Fanad Suite at the Captain's House is unique.  The main floor is a kitchen, living room, and bathroom with a spiral staircase upstairs to the bedroom.  They've been most helpful with storing the tandem.  Not a bad place to be holed up while it rains and blows.

Today's ride: 114 km (71 miles)
Total: 737 km (458 miles)

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