Day 1: Cork to Clonakilty

May 15, 2024

As we stood in the lobby of the Ashley Hotel with the tandem all ready to go looking out the windows at the cars passing by with their windshield wipers flapping, we gathered our courage to begin the day in the rain. We stalled, but it became apparent that we needed to get going. We donned our rain jackets, we ventured out the door.

Thankfully the rain was tapering to more of a shower. Surprisingly, it wasn't bad at all.

Working our way out of the busy city of Cork was a bit hectic, but shortly we were out on the open roads sided by hedgerows. The narrow roads went up, then they went down, and this became the rhythm of the day. Some ups were short and steep while others were a little longer and a bit easier on the legs. Eventually we found our way into the tourist town of Kinsale where there was a tiny market happening. The market was mostly made up of food vendors with a couple of local artisans. After a walkthrough, we ventured along the main street for a bit before returning to the tandem and moving along.

A perfect parking spot in the full parking lot next to the Market. We thought the sign was appropriate for us.

Shortly after leaving Kinsale we encountered our first sighting (& smell) of the Atlantic Ocean.

A quick stop at Sandycove. I contemplated getting in the water, but decided I'd be too cold afterwards to keep riding.

Continuing on we were still heading south towards Old Head and the Lusitania Museum. After a few more ups and downs we found it and walked around the property and visited the museum.

This artwork is a piece of steel with various sizes of holes that make the image visible.

Looking down onto the memorial created in honor of the lives saved and lost when the Lusitania sank. The German U2 fired a torpedo at her and she sank in 18 minutes. Of the 1200+ passengers only 450+ were saved. Looking over the names on the memorial, it appeared there were as many crew members as passengers onboard.

View from the top of the restored signal house towards Old Head of Kinsale and Old Head Golf Links.

View from the top of the restored signal house towards where we think we're headed.

With about 20 kilometers left to today's route, we came across the quaint village of Timaleauge. Apparently it used to be a port town until a tsunami struck it in 1755 and filled the bay with silt. This is the same tsunami that basically destroyed Lisbon along with the fires that ensued. As we came around a point and could see the village, the friary stood out as an all consuming view.

Between the flowers and the friary is what used to be the seaport of Timaleague.

We only had 10 kilometers to go, but there was the last climb of the day to be conquered. Just a half a kilometer of 10% and then we went along a paved 2 track road. It was too bumpy to take a photo. What goes up must come down and it was a nice downhill into Clonakilty, our destination for the day. We spent our first full day riding on the "wrong" side of the road. It will take some getting used to - especially on these small roads where there are no lane markings and everyone drives down the middle of the road until meeting another vehicle. We will constantly have to remind each other to stay to the left and that left turns are easy and right turns take more care!

We're staying at the An Sugan Guesthouse - great place.

Our accommodations are appropriately signed.

It was a great first day that started out a little on the wet side, but ended with a fantastic tailwind and some blue skies.

Accommodations: An Sugan is a restaurant, bar, with elegant rooms in the adjoining building. It was a very pleasant place to stay. Tandem storage in the entry way was not a problem. Dinner was very good in their restaurant. We would stay here again.

Today's ride: 72 km (45 miles)
Total: 81 km (50 miles)

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