Moll's Gap and the Gap of Dunloe

August 4, 2009

Killarney

It's sunny in the morning and we head out of Kenmare feeling quite perky.

The road around the Ring of Kerry - the N70 - will likely be busy with tour coaches and cars vying for its limited space. Competing with them doesn't appeal and so we turn off it soon, riding on a small road that rises inland, a quiet farm lane with no vehicles.

The sun is trying to shine and there are fuscia bushes coloring the hedgerows. After about 10km we get to higher ground, a sort of tiny plateau, and a couple of middle-aged female hikers implore us to visit Moll's Gap: "It's beautiful. Just ahead, turn right at the main road," they instruct. My route planning and knowledge is pretty poor -- they are surprised I don't already know all about it.

It's a fact that I hadn't researched this area very well. Moll's Gap? The women also tell us about the Gap of Dunloe. That's another new one.

Clouds are sweeping across the semi-agricultural landscape and wind is whistling from our left, up the escarpment and towards the distant peaks, blowing those clouds along and casting sunshine and shadows that move over the green fields faster than a car possibly could. We pause for a while to admire it all. The lane is narrow and is something of a cyclist's dream.

Our jackets stay in our panniers; it feels quite balmy at the moment.

There's a left turn-off at the main road just a while after we join it. This main road isn't very busy and once off it the lane drops down and bends about and we whiz along.

We're heading for the Gap of Dunloe now. It was signposted back there. This road is wonderful; up and down slightly; the wind behind us again.

We get to a Youth Hostel and stop for a pot of tea that we enjoy while sitting outside on a seat next to a small lawn. The sun comes out. A few teens on horses ride past. We catch them later, climbing up the long incline that gives us a vista of Ireland's most magical scenery.

It's got cloudier all of a sudden and maybe rain will sweep across this gorgeous landscape. Then I hear a strange click from my rear wheel, but it's not a spoke that's snapped. My rack is slightly loose so I brake to a halt. I find one of the frame's bottom eyelets has snapped off the frame. It'll need welding. Oh well. The other side snapped a while ago while touring France and I had it fixed okay; another welder is needed.

We didn't have any expectations for the Gap of Dunloe, which isn't something I knew about. The pass is windy and draped with grey skies. Then we drop and the sun bursts through the clouds.

The road is mesmerizing; twisting about as it falls downwards. An arched stone bridge looks like one of those corny images featured in paintings used on chocolate boxes. But this is real and magical.

Horse-drawn buggies trot past. We take a few snaps and then ride on.

The route is flanked by steep, rugged slopes and a small lake opens out next to the narrow route and in the distance are hills dappled in sunshine, with another lake visible not far ahead, further down the valley. We take more photos, waiting for sunlight to reappear to get stronger tones of green.

It's all a bit of a dash into Killarney. The welder someone tells us about will close at 5 and with it being a Friday the business won't open again until Monday morning. It turns out to be on an industrial estate on the far edge of town, up a hill. We just make it and having the frame's eyelet re-attached only costs 11 euros.

After all the drama, we cruise back into town and find a B&B - actually a pub - on the main street and hope our bikes are going to be safe locked up at the back.

Killarney is another tourism hot-spot. Live music is in most pubs and ours is no exception and we listen to singers at night while enjoying some more Guinness.

Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 287 km (178 miles)

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