June 21, 2020
Sedalia
The Katy Trail has been on my want-to list for several years - not only is it fairly close to Ames but it would add to my Rail Trail Hall of Fame rides. My sister and I planned a trip on the Katy Trail last year but we were washed out by the May rains. This year's pre-Covid plan included three Ames friends and a June 21 start date - after I'd returned from Europe. We are now in the midst of a pandemic – no matter what our leader seems to think - and all plans are in a constant state of flux. Each of my friends bowed out, and I seriously considered cancelling as well. But I'm moving east this fall and so seized the opportunity for a four-day solo ride on the Katy Trail.
One of the attractions of the Katy Trail is the fact that many of the towns along the route are served by Amtrak – the Missouri River Runner, which is still running one train per day between Saint Louis and Kansas City. Even better, a limited number of bicycles are allowed on the train with prior reservation. The plan is to start my ride in Sedalia, bike four days east to Washington, MO and catch the 5:06 pm train back to Sedalia. It will be almost like France, but not! I dug the panniers out storage, put my head back into touring mode, and headed out for the 4.5 hr drive to Sedalia.
I arrived in Sedalia in the late afternoon and checked into Hotel Bothwell, an historic downtown hotel located just blocks from the Katy Trailhead. After throwing open the windows, I headed out to explore a little of the town and grab some dinner.
Founded in 1857, Sedalia became a prosperous railroad town in the years after the Civil War. Reportedly called the “Sodom and Gomorrah of the 19th Century”, it boasted a concentration of downtown brothels and a thriving music scene that attracted a number of artists and musicians, including the ragtime composer Scott Joplin. More recently, the city was designated as one of Missouri’s DREAM initiatives that supports a revitalization of the historic downtown that is ongoing. On this early Sunday evening, the streets were wide and empty. I managed to find the only open restaurant and ate my Reuben sandwich at an outside table while listening to off-duty wait-staff loudly dropping F-bombs. Not the best dining experience, but I remind myself that I’m cycling through a pandemic and options are limited. And tomorrow I ride!
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