November 12, 2024
MotaaCycle Diaries - Towards Meghalaya
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I started early from Santali, Assam, with hopes of reaching Nongstoin, Meghalaya, where I was scheduled to meet another Warmshowers host. I rode past miles and miles of lotus "fields" and beautiful but flat streches.
Instead of taking the highway, I opted for a mountainous back road.
The flat plains of Assam gave way to steep mountains without warning, but I was determined not to push MotaaCycle ever.
A few times, the gradient was so steep that I had to get off the bike, ride back to a flatter section, and start over again. It was tough, but perseverance paid off.
One fascinating thing about India is its linguistic diversity. Knowing English and Hindi is often not enough, as each region—and sometimes even each village—has its own unique tribal languages and then dialects. Folks in Assam had warned me against taking this route, saying the local tribes didn't speak Hindi or English but instead used their own tribal language. Undeterred, I decided to experience it firsthand, and it turned out to be a wonderful and rewarding journey.
At one point, the heat got to me, and I stopped at a steep section to take a break—and even a quick nap. When I tried to start pedaling again, the gradient proved too much, so I had to push the bike for a few steps before resuming.
Adding to the challenge, MotaaCycle started making a screeching noise, as if trying to throw the wheel off. I couldn't figure out the issue until I reached a village called Lampi, where I discovered my brake pads were completely worn out. Fortunately, I had a spare set and replaced them right there thanks to help from a motorbike mechanic.
By then, it was getting dark, so I decided to call it a day. Lampi, a settlement of Nepali refugees who had been driven out of Meghalaya, turned out to be incredibly hospitable. The caretaker of the community guesthouse, however, wouldn’t let me stay there. I considered sleeping in a temple or a nearby construction site and was just about to pitch my tent when a villager invited me to his home.
That night, I stayed with him. He fed me another dinner, even though I had just eaten.
The next day was quite memorable. The village elders, including the guesthouse in-charge, formally welcomed and felicitated me, much to the amusement of the boy who had hosted me.
His was quite and he wasn't part of the "felicitation team" but he didn't need to be. His actions spoke louder.
Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,237 km (768 miles)
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