December 1, 2024 to December 3, 2024
More beauty and surprises from Meghalaya
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After spending 3–4 wonderful days in Mawranglang village, I packed up and set off for my next destination, Nongnah carrying with me unforgettable memories, learnings and newfound connections.
My first stop was the "Stonehenge" of India, followed by a canyon. The road was once again windy, and the scenery reminded me of the movie, Up.
Along the way, I had the good fortune of meeting a cyclist who was on a "stretch" ride, having completed a century ride the day before. While I had done 150 km/day rides during this Northeast trip, I hadn't attempted one in Meghalaya. The terrain here is different and takes a toll on the body. Later, I learned that this cyclist was a state- and national-level champion. He even test-rode MotaaCycle because he couldn’t believe it was possible to ride it long distances. After trying it, he was convinced.
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Then, my journey continued towards Nongnah, a tabletop mountain village. This being Sunday and Meghalaya being a Christian-majority state, I passed a lot of church services. Those and the undulating terrain reminded me of Ecuador.
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In Nongnah, I stayed with a local family who had just opened a new homestay. I was their first guest and was treated like royalty.
What was meant to be a brief stay turned into a few nights, as I explored the local caves with a young guide—just a 7th grader but incredibly knowledgeable.
I also visited an infinity pool on a cliff and other local attractions.
This region is poor and you could see it all around you.
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One fascinating detail I discovered was how Khasi/locals don’t need to carry water bottles or Tupperware. They collect nectar from young pitcher plant flowers and rely on local nuts for snacks. And, yes this region is abundant with pitcher plants.
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During my stay, I was fortunate to meet and speak with locals and the director of Balpakram National Park, where I hoped to visit. The park is home to many wild animals, including elephants and tigers. While some tourist guides had warned me about potential insurgency in the area, the director reassured me that such issues were in the past, though ongoing elephant census work might limit my access to the park.
When the locals carry food, they use banana or cassava leaves for packaging—a perfect example of green living.
After an enriching and enjoyable time in Nongnah, I decided to head towards Balpakram, ready to tackle a few more mountains before returning to the Warmshowers primary school in Nongstoin.
Today's ride: 42 km (26 miles)
Total: 1,477 km (917 miles)
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