Day 32 - An unexpected scene in Thakhek - Trial by fire: new bike, first tour, first time in Asia

November 26, 2024

Day 32 - An unexpected scene in Thakhek

It was blessedly overcast as we continued southwards on Hwy. 13. It was nice to have a break from bright sun. As it has been for the past few days, the road surface was great and there was at least a narrow bike lane all the way. But the quality of the road also encourages the traffic to move fast and that can wear on a cyclist.

We eventually reached the hill that we were pedaling towards for much of yesterday.

An intriguing limestone outcrop with deciduous trees, no doubt remaining as the various rivers eroded the nearby range.

There were always bits of colour to brighten an otherwise drab day.

This temple is on wheels. How many mirrors can you fit on a truck?

A small hydro system. Or perhaps amuch bigger one in the wet.

The market in Hinboun didn't have the usual grilled offerings.

But it did have these tasty little pastries filled with rice noodles and vegetables.

I'm developing an interest in the variety of Nagas.

This is the antithesis of a beautiful temple.

Ian had set his heart on a quality stop after 50 km and cycled it without stopping. Was there a nice place to sit at a place offering a fried rice and a Lao coffee? Apparently not! He grabbed a stack of small pancakes and some fruit and got on his way. We both found the next 30 km something of a wasteland. Where were the people or the small plots they work? Instead, there were numerous signs for Mekong Plantation Timber and the occasional factory along with rundown schools. It looked desperately poor. And perhaps made all the worse by the drab sky.

There's a lot of eucalypt in plantations - mainly red gums.

A rough field of dreams at a rundown school.

Among all of this were the normal surprises, a zoo being the main one. Having seen photos of this zoo online the night before. I had no interest in seeing it for myself. But there were rivers, elephants, stalls selling white powder and the typical mish mash.

There's even a zoo in this seeming wasteland.

Even the zoo's Dieffenbachias are trying to escape.

A pair of roosters guard the zoo's closed restaurant.

It seems that if you build anything then you need a white elephant.

Tricky one! Hint - I'm reasonably sure it was once a lizard, even a dragon.

White powder for sale - a celebrity's dream!

It was the pieces of timber that appealed rather than the sculpture.

Everything changed after we turned off the highway a few km before Thakhek. The road narrowed, there were more things to look at, including the mighty Mekong.

There's a great advantage of "open defaecation" - you can declare a public holiday on the day it ends and celebrate it every year thereafter.

Now, here's a little story on open defaecation from India, whete many take a crap near railway lines. I read in the times of India that, occasionally, someone so engaged notices and reports a fault in the railway lines. Hence, open defaecation prevents rail disasters!

The excitement continued:

I don't remember Thakhek being touristy in 2011, but it certainly is now. It is like a rundown Luang Prabang, where the average tourist is a young backpacker seeking cheap dorm accommodation.

Why aren't these kerbs and gutters everywhere?

A lotus seller. You eat the seeds - it's hard work. Apparently, one germinated after being stored for 1300 years.

We found accommodation in the Lao Home Hostel; went upmarket with a private room.

It took no time to find somewhere to eat thst had excellent food, while wandering the bank of the Mekong in the balmy evening was fun. It's easy to like Thakhek.

I want to look for a field guide to the Nagas.

Today's ride: 101 km (63 miles)
Total: 1,630 km (1,012 miles)

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