Day 31 - Following the Mekong - Trial by fire: new bike, first tour, first time in Asia

November 25, 2024

Day 31 - Following the Mekong

Today it seems as though we can start with a few km along the Mekong. The quality of Highway 13 was a relief after many of the roads we had cycled, but it comes with a price - it's somewhat mundane. The wider it gets, the less inspiring it becomes. Of course hills are behind us too, which steals something from the ride.

We left town as vegetable farmers tended their plots, labourers dug ditches and monks returned to their wats, having collected alms.

Following the Mekong was a good move. We saw a terrific variety of things in just 13 km.

But logic told me that a track through a small rubber plantation would jump the ravine higher up and lead to a village. It did!

We popped out at a temple on the edge of a village. After a few km we were back to Highway 13.

For more than 30 km, Highway 13 was a little narrower than it was yesterday and hugged the Mekong. It was a fine ride.

A church! Last bastion or foot in the door?

We both had a break after 45 km at Pak kading. Apart from fine food and excellent coffee, the woman who ran the show was crafting hangers for drying strips of beef.

Conditions changed somewhat at the bridge over the Namkading River near its confluence with the Mekong. At this point it was tempting to seek a minor road that runs parallel to the Mekong, but we're a bit short of time so took the easy way.

The confluence of the Mekong and Namkading

Highway 13 went inland from the Mekong and tracked the Namkading. But after a few kms it took a path between the two rivers and the riding became less interesting, even though a range of hills made for fine scenery.

That said, there was all of the usual strange and other stuff that kept the eyes alert.

Still life - discarded playing card and cigarette butts

A fine range of machete for most purposes

Labourers unloading a semi-trailer of cement bag by bag.

Rubber - we had seen it growing and being harvested. We had smelled trucks of it passing. And here are people taking it to a central location. The stench is dreadful.

A sign indicating an electric vehicle recharging station. We've seen many EVs in Laos.

I rode on ahead and trusted I'd find a guesthouse in Khonsong. Fortunately, there is one that the sign itself suggests is a little weary. We later deciphered it to Phimmochack Guesthouse. I rode down the driveway, parked my bike and called at an open door of the house. An elderly woman showed me a room and I took two for 100,000 kip apiece. It's a place of character. We even got tea in a china pot!

Our presence encouraged them to change light bulbs that don't work and little things like that.

We finished the day with a hearty meal around the corner. Prior to that I swapped some brake pads that I had pushed to ther absolute limit.

Today's ride: 98 km (61 miles)
Total: 1,529 km (950 miles)

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