Day 17 - Ian: Sounds of silence on a hilly ride to Muang Kham - Trial by fire: new bike, first tour, first time in Asia

November 11, 2024

Day 17 - Ian: Sounds of silence on a hilly ride to Muang Kham

I had an interesting ride today but before I describe it, here's something from yesterday. I was cycling along thinking about random stuff when I decided to contact a friend and former student, Justin, to see how he's going.

Within moments I heard back and this is what Justin had to say (with permission). "Hi Wal, great to see you continuing to get stuck into life. Laos always seems nice in the photos. Julianne and I heading to Japan in Feb. And booked dive tour in Japan in Sept 25, if im still around and able. Just home from diving weekend near Bateman's Bay. First dive since breaking my hip in Sep, falling off bike on to concrete gutter😀. Chemo going well though cancer markers might be on the move. I'm passed the 6mth point of my 6-12 mths so feeling positive though changes expected. Best wishes for the trip." I like to think I get stuck into life but I'm no match for Justin.

I knew that today was a little on the tough side so I prepared for it, first with a huge dinner last night and by returning to the same place for breakfast. I wanted to start well fed and hydrated.

This is what I was up against today. Komoot indicated 2450 m of ascending and 9.5 hours for 87 km.

So, apart from eating and drinking a lot, I also planned the ride. I'd try to do 10 km before stopping and then another 10 to get to the top of the climb. Then I would do 15 km segments but only stop at the tops of hills. Of course, I would stop for photos.

While Komoot makes it look like a plateau, the ride followed a ridge and started and finished at 500 m asl. It was really a 68 km ride if you discount the huge descent to finish.

I was on my way before 8, passed Winston waiting for the 8 am bus, crossed the river and started to climb in the fog. Oncoming motorcycles sped past in almost silence. I did 10 km before 9 and so did another km.

Factory of purification of water and clean ice

Wouldn't it be nice for military spending to be redirected.

A fuel tanker groaning about the gradient

An 11 km selfie taken the moment I stopped.

The fog lifted in the 15 minutes I was resting and the day seemed considerably warmer. A breeze sprung up too, sometimes a headwind and sometimes a tailwind and everything in between. I enjoyed the former; it's cooling value exceeded it's hindrance.

I managed the next leg to 20 km and decided to push on in some easier terrain. The next 48 km were always undulating. Oncoming motorcycles were either humming or silent.

Terrific cycling provided you enjoy hills

The fog lifts to reveal deluded hillsides

There were far fewer villages today than we're used to and many seemed poor. Those I saw below seemed more prosperous, no doubt due to better soil. There was the usual variety of houses.

I seemed to spend much of the day near precipitous drops staring down into valleys or at ridges snaking away.

The paucity of villages meant that I saw fewer people than on preceding days. But there were always some jumping in front of a camera.

As I got to 60 km a silent motorcycle passed at pace and I knew I had something hard immediately ahead. It wasn't long but it was steep. Eventually I reached the 68 km mark with the climbing mostly done other than two niggly hills coming into Muang Kham.

A dirty little shelter gave me a place to sit before the 15 km descent.

The road plummeted down, mostly through pleasant forest.

It was a fun descent on mostly good road. But there were enough potholes and other hazards to warrant great care. I caught up to a fuel tanker that locked up its brakes and almost skidded off the road prompting me to take a break until the road cleared.

It's a terrific view to the plain below.

But the garbage at the lookout was abhorrent

I easily found Winston at his abode. I lookedcat my odometer and had done the 87 km in under 6 1/2 hours at an average of 13.4 kmh, 50 % faster than Komoot's suggestion. But is that for 66 year-old grey beards? We went for a meal and a well deserved beer and had a fine time chatting with Thaimoua, a local who learnt English at university in Vientiane and now works for Save the Children.

Today's ride: 87 km (54 miles)
Total: 805 km (500 miles)

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