February 1, 2025
Harnai to Harihareshwar
Little sleep but cycling in the cool morning air kept me awake. Harnai was also waking up and I caught up with a wedding procession that took over the road. The road was not very wide and the procession with a lit up tut-tut in the middle extended for about 50 metres. Motorbikes came alongside me and we wobbled along at the rear. One of the motorbikes dived down a side turning so I followed, getting left behind as it went through a maze of narrow village streets which were impassible to cars. I kept the sea to my left and land to my right, up a steep little hill and back onto my original road. Thankfully ahead of the procession.
At the top of the next hill were several modern hotels. All empty and shut up. Yet more were being built and plots were for sale.
The road from here was single carriageway tarmac passing through trees that gave a cool shade. I could hear the birds and if I saw a leaf drop there was often a monkey above, watching me pass.
Breakfast at Kelshi and then a 5 mile ride inland to cross the river where it was narrower. A long bridge had been started at the Kelshi river mouth to take a new Coastal Highway but the project seems to have faltered. I do hope so, the lack of a through road is protecting this Konkan region.
After crossing the inland bridge a narrow tarmac road took me back to the coast. The hillside above me was steep and covered in old forest but sections were being fenced off with barbed wire, the old trees removed, and new mango or cashew planted. On a steep South facing slope I do not think it likely that the new trees will survive. Instead the hill will landslide in monsoon time and bake in the dry season.
At Harihareshwar I booked into the same place as last year, the Om Shree Family Homestay. They are close to NH4 which is a narrow tarmac road. They have been told that in 2 years time their house will be destroyed under the new Coastal Highway. So maybe the monster is coming?
Today's ride: 43 miles (69 km)
Total: 856 miles (1,378 km)
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