Bryce Canyon National Park - Escalante, Utah - I've never been so ill prepared or so determined to tour

June 20, 2019

Bryce Canyon National Park - Escalante, Utah

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2,062 elevation gain. 3,978 elevation loss.

We turned out the lights before 9 PM, but it was still light out. Considering how early we went to bed, I wasn't surprised to wake up at 1 AM. After that I felt like I tossed and turned all night. I heard Oren get up and shower? I think? But then he went back to bed. When I woke up next it was 6:24 and we were planning on a 7 AM breakfast. We all ran around and got organized. We were to breakfast before 7 AM, which was promptly at 7. There was a small line waiting, but they go by the clock here. I was already planning on the buffet. It was $15. compared to the $17.50 at the Grand Canyon. Here they did not have strawberries or blueberries. But it was good and I ate my fill. Jacinto ordered breakfast and had corned beef hash - which I'm not sure he ever ordered before and said it looked like cat puke. Luckily by the time he got his breakfast, I had mostly finished mine, so he didn't ruin my appetite.

Today the forecast said winds of up to 30 mph. Luckily they would be from the west and we were traveling east. But that's a bit too windy for me. A side gust could easily push a cyclist into traffic. At this moment, winds were calm and it was 48 degrees. Oren had on five layers, plus his rain pants. He had the bottoms of the rain pants closed up with velcro strips. I wore a wind vest. You can tell we are from different parts of the country. Jacinto said he wouldn't be far behind us, there was no TV or internet to distract him and we had him scared with the wind forecast.

Today we had a bigger mileage day with plenty of downhill and one large climb. Oren had ridden this a few years ago and frozen, thus all of the layers. It was basically a downhill run all the way to the town of Tropic at about mile 15. Oren had said he would want to stop there to remove some layers before the climb and for a snack. We were in Tropic after only 45 minutes. Neither of us wanted a snack. Oren did remove some layers. I told him I would go ahead, since I'm slower on the climbs. I also wanted to look for a pee spot. Yes, I could have gone at the store, but I would have felt the need to buy something that I didn't want. It was easier and faster to find a nice bush, guard rail, or concrete barrier. Oren got a laugh earlier in the trip when I told him I just wanted to pee and go, not make a real stop. Soon enough, a concrete barrier appeared.

We passed through several very small communities.

I didn't see Oren for quite some time. But he eventually showed up in my mirror. The climb was reasonable for miles and miles. As much as I like gentle grades, I'm constantly calculating the remaining feet to climb and the remaining miles. Sure enough, we ended up with a stiff 900 foot climb to the summit. Oren stopped at the bottom and said the only reason he stopped is that he didn't want to get written up in the journal for not giving me enough breaks! Whatever it takes! Every time we were within talking distance Oren commented on how pretty the area was. I asked several times if he had taken any photos, since it was pretty. Nope - but he was enjoying the scenery at bicycle speed much more than he had when driving through here at car speed.

My legs were certainly warmed up by the time we hit the climb. It looked big. I decided to eat a Perpetuum Tablet as insurance. Off we went. The first section was a reasonable grade, then we had a false summit. I hate that - I don't like giving up my hard earned elevation! Then a real steep pitch came up. I ended up walking a section around the corner. RWGPS said the top elevation was 11%. Garmin in this part said 18-21% - sometimes I'd like to believe Garmin . . .but it wasn't quite that difficult.

After we reached the top, it was all downhill for the remaining~20 miles. A beautiful cruising downhill on near perfect pavement. It was slightly steep at the top, but mostly I just used the brakes a few times to check my speed. We had a significant tailwind for much of the climb and all of the downhill. This was the big wind we were worried about. I was extra happy that I wasn't climbing this part against the wind. That would be double agony.

Oren had put on his jacket for the downhill. I put on my Earbag ear covers. Already I could tell temperatures were warmer as we descended. We rolled into town. Oren wanted to go straight to eat at the restaurant he and Spoon had eaten at. I suggested since our motel was right across the street and not too much walking that we check in first. I enjoy my food more if I'm not covered in sweat. You've got to love mom and pop motels - there's never an issue about checking in early. It wasn't even noon, but we had no problem getting in the room and I had my pick of rags to clean the bike.

Our room is quite large. The bathroom is spacious. The toilet paper holder is on the wall, as is typical. The wall is so far away that I'm at risk of falling off of the toilet reaching for the paper! That is a new situation.

Jacinto hung all of our clothes outside on the fence to dry. He was happy with himself, saying they would be dry by the time we went for lunch. I agreed, but I was also concerned we wouldn't be able to find our clothes for fear the wind would blow them away. I picked everything off of the fence and put it on the luggage stand outside of our door.

We all walked across the street to the Circle D Restaurant. Jacinto had eaten his leftover salad and was along for the activity. He ended up with chips and salsa. Despite the fact that the restaurant advertises local beef raised right in Escalante, Oren and I both ordered fish tacos. They were delicious. I'm looking forward to having dinner there this evening. It's lucky that the food was good as they are the only game in town besides a pizza place. Jacinto walked down to buy a beer, but google said it was a seven minute walk each way and that was too far for Oren. It was definitely too far for me - I had the excuse of writing this journal. I also cleaned and lubed my chain. It seems as if I've been applying lube more often than usual. I do wipe it off nightly, but usually only lube once a week.

Edit - The owner at Pole's Place Motel in Boulder said they go to Escalante to do their shopping. (!) She said she's lived here all of her life and she hated the drive in the winter to Escalante. The highway department placed barrels of salt along the way for drivers to spread for tractions. The switchbacks are called The Blues and the flat area is the Upper Valley. Oren has her all softened up, but Jacinto is still afraid to go buy a t-shirt from her. The gift shop does have an excellent selection.

Ruby's Inn at the intersection to Bryce had tepee's for rent. I told the guys they might possibly be as memorable as staying in a caboose. They weren't interested.

This looks like a dog agility course? It is outside of Tropic.

Look carefully to see our climbing snaking above us. 3.5 miles and 900 feet of climbing. There was a section of 11% that I walked. Oren climbed without stopping once. . . .

Jacinto walked up .4 miles to see the cave. He was totally unimpressed, said it was just a big room. He liked the waterfall a little more.

Today's ride: 51 miles (82 km)
Total: 782 miles (1,259 km)

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John PickettCan't figure out how I missed you. I was at the Circle D on the same day heading from Boulder to Tropic. I spent at least an hour in Escalante. I do not envy you the climb to Boulder. The ride down was literally breathtaking.
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3 years ago

Kelly IniguezWhat a small world! You think we would have seen each other? Or at least the bicycle? I would have noted it if we had seen someone. There were so few cyclists on this trip.
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3 years ago