Brian Head - Panguitch, Utah - I've never been so ill prepared or so determined to tour

June 18, 2019

Brian Head - Panguitch, Utah

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1,636 elevation gain. 4,505 elevation descent.

Oren and I had major discussions last night about the weather. We checked multiple sources. Oren's phone was showing 51% chance of rain at 9 AM. Mine said 13% chance. That's quite a difference. We decided to look again in the morning, but plan on a 7:30-8 AM departure. Jacinto was going to stay as long as possible in our deluxe 950 square foot apartment.

Morning came, I looked outside. The clouds were as black as they could be without actually raining. My phone said it was raining. Oh, boy. I went back to bed. When I got up for real, there was no mention of rain all day in either Brian Head or Panguitch. The clouds looked slightly less threatening.

While Oren and I ate breakfast, I ordered some of those Anti Fatigue tablets. They wouldn't do me any good this trip. But I'll have them for Canada. I was surprised Jacinto got up before we left. I got lucky as he helped Oren schlep the bikes and gear downstairs. Oren was in full rain gear. I took the optimistic approach and put on a wind vest. The temperature was 46 degrees.

When we checked in yesterday, the clerk pointedly said more than once that 10 AM was the check out time. Jacinto wanted me to ask for a later time. This morning's clerk asked if I knew we could have kept our bikes in the ski storage. Yes, I replied. Yesterday they said that was an choice or we could keep them in our rooms and that's more convenient. It was a little late now anyway.

We knew we had to climb five miles back up, up, up the hill to the intersection. Heck. Not what my legs wanted to do this morning. BUT - the rest of the day was downhill. That's why Oren was in full rain gear, to try and stay warm.

The .8 miles back to the general store took 20 minutes. I wasn't surprised. I had called Blue Pine Motel in Panguitch this morning to see if we could get an early check in. I pleaded rain and welts from the hail. I told the lady that optimistically it would take us an hour to cover the 5 miles back to the intersection. That was optimistic. I thought overall we could cover the 37 miles by noon.

we stopped I don't know how many times on the climb. Near the top, at the snow gate, I walked several delineator posts of distance. My Garmin said 14% in that area. My thighs were really protesting. Even Oren stopped. That means it was rough. I sent Jacinto a text and said he'd love it and probably want to go back to town just to do it over. Later he told me that he hadn't stopped at all, but certainly didn't consider doing it twice.

I wasn't so sure about the giant downhill. Until last year, I've always enjoyed the downhills. Now I need to relearn to appreciate the reward of the climb. Today the surface wasn't as good, it had sealed lines across the road and assorted chips and dips. I kept my speed 25-30 mph. Oren and I agreed that our brakes were noticeably mushy today compared to yesterday. Did the cables stretch that much or the brake pads wear down that far? I had new brake pads for the trip. I just opened mine up and looked at them. I will need more brake pads for Canada. These are visibly worn.

Scenery at the top had plenty of snow - remember it's at 10,500 feet. I had taken off my wind vest on the climb, but I put it back on and zipped it up all the way. Oren said he was all buttoned up and ready to go. There wasn't any crazy steep downhills with switchbacks, but it we did plenty of coasting. Oren warned me that we still had a few ups to go. That was fine as I wanted to build some body heat. My legs are very sore on any steep climb. You'd think after two weeks of touring that they would be getting in the groove. Certainly this trip has been all about climbing, it's no surprise.

In no time at all we rode through Panguitch Lake Resort. I looked carefully both directions to see if there were any options we could have taken here. Possibly a cabin rental? But the only food spot was Grandma's Hamburgers which had a closed sign.

We rode around the lake. I could see a road climbing up and away from the lake on the left. Was that us? No, I think we curve right and we are about done with climbing for the day. I was correct. Right we went. Soon we arrived at mile 30. For some reason I thought that should be town, but we were obviously out in the middle of nowhere. I looked at the phone. Ah, yes. 36 miles today. We would be there soon enough.

We arrived at the hill above town. It was so beautiful that I had to stop to take in the view. Even no stopping Oren had to stop and look. He said that tomorrow we would be going to the right, where the red cliffs were. Toward Bryce.

We agreed to check in at the motel, drop our gear, and continue on to Subway. When we pulled up outside of the motel, the two cyclists from yesterday came up behind us. We chatted for a few minutes. They were looking for groceries and the post office. Then they were continuing on to Bryce.

We checked in and headed on down the road to Subway. As usual, that was a popular spot in town. We had to wait to order. This subway had a yogurt store included. I don't think they did very good business. There were 6-8 flavors and you could fill your own cup, then the clerk weighed it and you paid by weight. The problem was that they had little ketchup type cups to have flavor samples. Help yourself. I saw a number of people have several samples and leave. I only saw one family buy anything. I would have bought some if Oren did, but he didn't want any.

Oren wanted to check out breakfast items for the morning. I was ready to go back to the room. I requested oatmeal and pecans. I stopped by the movie theatre for a photo. Just as I was finishing my shower, I could hear the rain pouring down. Oren was in. He had gotten just slightly wet. He had seen the two cyclists at the grocery, they were still in town.

I had just put my clothes outside, hoping that they would dry despite the on and off again rain when Jacinto pulled up. He had gotten wet perhaps a mile from town. Oren asked him if he was a wetback, but Jacinto said he was only wet arms. Jacinto had bought a six pack of some terrible beer back in Cedar City that neither Oren or I would drink. He's been carrying the leftovers ever since. He brought the last bottle and drank it today with the end of his pistachios. The same three pound bag he started with. Jacinto says he wants to eat as much of his food as possible before the infamous 16% climb between Escalante and Torrey. I asked him if he thought his front wheel would pull of the ground. I've already given myself permission to walk. I think it will be a substantial distance.

It has rained off and on all afternoon. It was 66 degrees at 4 PM. The pattern has been drenching downpours for about five minutes. Then it quits, dries up, and pours again. I gave up and brought my clothes inside. I hope they dry by tomorrow. Jacinto said he didn't see any salt lines on his shirt, so his clothes don't need washed.

Today and tomorrow are slightly easier days. I'm glad we didn't combine them into one. Then we have a longer mile day. Then a couple of days of steep climbing that I'm sure I won't enjoy. But the scenery should distract me from the agony. We are getting into the really good stuff now!

I've been carrying my Hydro Flask for cold water refills during the day. I used it the first day and haven't used it since. Although I have been carrying it full of water and drink out of it at night in the motel. I think Canada might be cool enough I will leave the heavy Hydro Flask home? That's with a question mark.

I had cleaned the bike yesterday, but I wiped the rims down a second time today with some alcohol wipes that I keep to clean my hands after changing a flat. I don't know if that did any good or not. The rims did still seem dirty, which surprised me because I thought I did a good job yesterday.

This sign is pointing the wrong way. We had 4.9 miles and 995 feet of climbing to get back to the intersection. My legs were not interested.

Cedar Breaks in the background. It was our last view.

These are Lake Powell style house boats. They look very small in the photo. Lake Panguitch.

Even Oren had to pause at the top of the hill before town. The view was magnificent.

We saw these two yesterday at Cedar Breaks. They hung out a couple of hours longer and missed the hail. They camped at the lake.

They were on their way to Bryce today. Maybe. Oren saw them at the store later. And Jacinto saw them again. It's been raining off and on. I probably wouldn't want to start the big climb to Bryce in the rain.

They have a movie theatre in little Panguitch!

Jacinto’s empty three pound pistachio bag. He’s not buying more. He doesn’t want to haul anything unnecessary up the steep climbs we have coming up.

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 705 miles (1,135 km)

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