To Wisdom, MT

June 5, 2024

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We were having another relaxed start this morning. As long as the temperatures and the mileage stay friendly, I can go for this sleeping in thing! I told Jacinto if Oren had been here, we would be ten miles down the pass already. Instead we were just cracking our eyelids at 8 AM. I took my granola and ate it in front by the office, checking my email. I was surprisingly warm in the sunshine. Perhaps I would move up my start time?

The bikes stayed outside last night. There was a bit more back and forth this morning to get them loaded. I wore my warm tights for the third morning in a row, but didn't both with a jacket or vest, presuming I would be nice and warm while climbing. I did apply sunscreen, but I told Jacinto I expected to sweat it off before it could do me much good.

I walked my bike to the front of the property, and what did I see passing by at a fast rate of speed, but a touring cyclist! I yelled hello, and he threw a hello back. I was slightly concerned about the grade of the road. He was really moving. I saw four panniers and something very long and orange sticking far behind his bike. It didn't look like a pool noodle, it was too straight. Far too long and big around to be tent poles. Hmmm, trying to solve that puzzle got me a few miles down the road.

We had a 15 mile/3,200 foot climb today. I have to shamefully admit that I haven't ridden a 3,000 foot climb even once this spring. I had the opportunity, but did not take it. My best case scenario for the day was to average 5 mph up the climb. Spoiler alert - I managed 4.7 mph. I was very happy with that. Jacinto averaged 6.0 mph to the top. He was happy that he sweat so much that the sweat dripped on his phone. I had to admire the prodigious amount of dried sweat collected there. The things we do for our spouses!

I stopped at mile 5, but thought that the road would take an upward tilt and I probably couldn't go another 5 without stopping. I decided to aim for 3 miles, and managed that. My morning was going well. There was slightly more shoulder today, but hardly any traffic. The cars were good to go way around. Jacinto and I both had one negative experience. A white 13 passenger van gave plenty of room, but the passenger yelled something out the window that didn't sound friendly. We both had the same experience, although not riding together.

When I was packing for this trip, I allowed myself one Hammer brand Perpeteum tablet (long distance energy chew) per day. Oren introduced me to these several years ago. I haven't needed one yet, but today chewed two. I didn't eat anything else while climbing, my body was busy working! I carried three water bottles, and one electrolyte bottle. I drank half of two. The temperature was perfect for climbing, low 60's. I was sweating but not overheating. I made only one potty stop all day. Jacinto says if it's not hot, or he's not working because of climbing, then he has to get rid of excess fluid by peeing. If he's sweating, that's a better way to get rid of fluid. I was following his lead today!

We have made the climb up Big Hole/Chief Joseph passes twice. Once from Wisdom, and once from Sula, but never from Salmon. My vague memory was of a visitor's center at the top. I was wrong. I did think we'd get a pass sign, but I couldn't find one.

I took a right onto Highway 43, and kept climbing for another mile. The road condition deteriorated, but traffic really dropped off. This was Chief Joseph Pass, elevation 7,251. Now we get the downhill, but the road was in bad condition. That's okay - I'm not a fast downhiller anyway. This was my first pass on this bike, loaded or not! I sure would have liked a sign to mark the occasion. I like the disc brakes, it was easy to modulate my speed. The bike handled well. My top speed was 32.5 mph. I've gone 37 mph at home, but not loaded.

I wasn't far down the pass when the view opened up. All of the colors were so brilliant. The snow on the mountains was white, white, the mountains were vivid blue, and startlingly green grass. I didn't get far before the streams of water turned into marshes. No wonder Wisdom is famous for mosquitoes!

I passed Big Hole National Battlefield. It took me a mile or so of thinking to figure out that NB stands for National Battlefield. In 1877 60-90 New Perce were massacred. That's my lingo, not the website. I had stopped there on a previous trip and watched the movie. I did not stop today.

Given my lack of hill training, I was extra pleased with my day. The downhill miles were ticking away pleasantly. I had a strong tailwind to help. Today I checked a number of boxes, and got to include the blue skies box! Yes, it was a fine day.

I saw a sign for a cell phone pull out. Service! What did we do before cell phones? I pulled over and called Jacinto. He was five miles behind me. I offered to stop at the grocery for bananas and drinks. That met with Jacinto's approval.

Wisdom does have a grocery, complete with a small fresh foods section. I bought two apples, and two bananas. I debated on my favorite Calypso Lemonade for $2.50 or a V-8 for $2.75. I went with the V-8 today. I did not buy a nut roll, because they had only small ones, and I wanted the large. Jacinto laughed at me and said I could have bought two, or even three (!) nut rolls. No. I just went with the V-8. I would have waited at the picnic table outside for Jacinto, but the mosquitoes encouraged me to keep going.

We are at the New Perce Motel on the edge of town. I was hardly in the room, when Jacinto showed up. They had alpacas tied at strategic spots all around the motel. Organic lawn mowing?

Jacinto has sweated enough today to wash his clothes. I've washed mine in the sink daily, thank you very much! I've asked for a rag to wipe my chain. Jacinto was satisfied to announce he didn't have to do that, as he has a belt drive. Now he has walked back to the store to buy a milk for my granola in the morning. I forgot. Ooops. I'm supposed to finish this up, and then we are going to Fetty's for dinner. Jacinto says it looks like Diner food. Considering that we had leftovers last night, I'm going to be happy to have fresh food!

Tomorrow is 1,700 feet of climbing over 54 miles. It's one of the days I've been looking forward to on this trip, a backroad to Anaconda.

All men need a truck like this to take their trash out.

The owner said a skunk was scratching here, maybe we should go ahead and bring our snacks in the room.

The pack animals across the street watched me for a very long time. I think they were hoping I was in charge of breakfast.

The outside of the Broken Arrow restaurant.

Note the broken arrow above the umbrellas.

My first stop was after five miles and ~750 feet of climbing. I thought that was good progress.

I haven’t been photographing as many ranch gates. Here’s one. Except I think this is a gated community, based on the mail boxes to the left.

This marmot was my first and only wildlife sighting so far. I haven’t even seen a bunny rabbit.

There wasn’t a pass sign for hard working cyclists. But there was a state line sign.

You can just see the road, way down there.

Jacinto’s photo on the downside of the pass. We have to ask if there was a forest fire here, or if these were all beetle kill.

The colors were vibrant approaching Wisdom.

Wisdom is famous for mosquitoes with cyclists. You can see why. There is a campground on the edge of town for cyclists. The TransAm comes through here. The intel on mosquitoes is correct today!

The last grocery store for 50 miles, the sign says. I would have enjoyed my snack at the picnic table in front, except for the mosquitoes.

A good old Ford. I’m guessing it’s about a 1974, the year I learned to drive on.

Our $89. Room at the Nez Perce Motel is very satisfactory. A nice young couple with two small children run the place.

Bathroom photo. The tub was new and good condition.

Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 132 miles (212 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	11
Comment on this entry	Comment	8

George (Buddy) HallI stayed at the Nez Perce motel in 2015 on my Transam ride. The young lady who checked me in was about to do her laundry and told me to bring my dirty laundry by and she would include it - that was nice! I ate at the bar that night, and saw her and her husband in a separate room where they were having some sort of town meeting. Wisdom was a nice town, but yeah, the mosquitoes are tough on the cyclists who camp there. https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/buddy/day-56-sula-to-wisdom-mt-in-pursuit-of-wisdom-and-clean-air/
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5 months ago

George (Buddy) HallYou went over Lost Trail Pass at the point you connected with highway 43. On the RWGPS map (Google Hybrid mode), using the street level view, you can see the Chief Joseph Pass sign - it would have been on your left at mile 15.1 - you have been there before and would know where to find the sign, so has the sign been removed now? That's a bummer - I hate it when you do all the work to climb a pass and there's no sign at the summit - especially at a continental divide crossing.
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5 months ago

Kelly IniguezTo George (Buddy) HallI had to go back and look at my 2020 journal - I have a photo of the Chief Joseph Pass sign! Neither one of us saw it yesterday. For Lost Trail Pass, the closest I got was a sign for the ski area.

I think the only place our route crosses the TransAm is the short section from the top of the pass to Wisdom.

I was thinking about the border to border trip, and could it be altered to include the roads we've been cycling. I suppose it depends if you have a desire to go into Missoula. We don't. This route has been recommendable starting in Challis. But, it would be easiest to made the adjustment to the east from Wisdom to Ovando. Would that be new riding for you?
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5 months ago

George (Buddy) HallGoing from Wisdom to Ovando would be new roads to me, but getting to Wisdom would involve a lot of the Transam route. I like the route I have planned. Some recent developments, unfortunately things aren't shaping up favorably for me to do it this year - that's a real downer cause I have trained all year for it. Still a chance, but less than 50/50 as of some developments today. It may come down to a last minute decision, and I don't have any reservations made yet - I don't want to have to cancel them all like I did last year.
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5 months ago

Kelly IniguezTo George (Buddy) HallThat would be a soul crushing number of reservations to cancel! Do you still have your map visible on RWGPS? What is the name?
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5 months ago

George (Buddy) HallTry this; https://ridewithgps.com/collections/1884555?privacy_code=fKqFi5y3jSc19AUf
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5 months ago

Kelly IniguezThank you. I wish I had consulted you on that Seely Lake/Swan Lake section. I see you found lodging? For one night? That's the problem. So many places in tourist areas now want more than one night. I would change our Seely Lake night to match - except I've already prepaid above the bar. $168. I just sent the man an email tonight to remind him. I'm slightly concerned. I paid on January 18th. Jacinto says he thinks it should be a nice place, at that price. The last time we stayed above the bar was at the Hanna Hilton - https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/chevy/altamont-hanna-ut/
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5 months ago

Rachael AndersonCongratulations on making it up the climb!
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5 months ago