July 9, 2024
To White Bird, ID
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The mind is a powerful thing. I have been dreading today for months. Months! The end of the story is that it was one of the best days of the trip. As much as I enjoy an easy cruising day, I have to admit the conquering a big climb gives me much satisfaction.
Last night we were tucked into bed before 10 PM. The shade had hit our yurt, and it cooled off quickly. Across the river (close) was a girl's camp. They were doing some sort of races that involved lots of yelling and a man giving instructions on a bull horn! At 10 PM - I told Jacinto it was going to get dark soon, they would stop. But they had lights strung up all over, and did not stop. I went to sleep. Who knows when they quit. I was surprised how well I slept, considering I had myself worked into quite a state over the climb. The birds started singing around 4 AM - that's far too early to sing! I gave up and got up at 4:30. It took me two trips to the bathhouse to get ready. I was out the door at 6:20 - ready to face the day.
As much as I go on and on about the yurt, the grease smell (really horrible), etc. Jacinto wholeheartedly agrees stopping at Harpster was the best choice. If we had kept going, we would have done the big climb in the heat of the day, and it would have been much more taxing on our bodies.
I had two miles to warm up my legs before the big climb up Harpster Grade started. It was a 2,000 foot climb to Grangeville. That was the majority of the elevation gain. I decided to take the conservative approach of stopping every mile for a break. I took a couple of quick sips of electrolyte drink, and one of plain water to cleanse the palate. Look at me, you'd think I was drinking fine wine!
The first part of the grade was the steepest. I was panting so loudly, I scared a wild turkey that was roosting in a tree next to the road. When he took off flying, that scared me!
I took careful inventory of vehicles this morning. In the first 13 miles to Grangeville, I had five logging trucks pass. All went completely over into the other lane. Double that number came down the hill empty. Some of them returned my greeting wave. Most didn't. One logging truck driver was enthusiastic in his return wave. That put a smile on my face. I saw my first logging truck at 5:30 this morning, while walking to the bathhouse. I wonder what time they start working? Overall, at this hour, there was no traffic at all. I was still in complete shade. The sun hadn't made it over the mountain yet. Yes. Doing this steep climb in the early morning was the wise move for us.
At Grangeville, I passed up the first gas station and then was concerned it was the only one. But there has to be more than one. Grangeville is a big town - with a movie theatre! I stopped at the Exxon on the far side of town. It was a small building, with an Indian from India proprietor (I presume). He wasn't overly friendly, but the prices were good. I bought a Powerade and a V-8 for only $3.69. I sat on the curb and drank the V-8. I had been getting tired as I got to town. Stopping was a good idea. I filled up my electrolyte bottle with ice and poured in the Powerade. The V-8 really hit the spot. It's too bad I so seldom see it now.
I was ready to tackle the next section. 1,300 feet of climbing in 7 miles. It was gentler, even though I was tired. I didn't bother with the stop every mile on this part. I was riding at 200 feet of elevation gain per mile. I was playing the numbers in my head, reeling them in.
For years, I have psyched myself out over big climbs. Every single time, I get to the top - usually in good condition. So, why do I do this? I cannot tell you. Today was a good, nay, great day. I felt accomplished as I reached the top. I don't have that good feeling on a regular cycling day.
I took some photos at the ranch at the summit, then stopped when I reached the viewpoint. I was ready for the big downhill on all of the switchbacks! I went perhaps 20 mph all down the switchbacks. It seemed prudent.
All of this time, I had two pick up trucks pass me on the climb. That was it. Old Highway 95/the White Bird Grade Hill was practically a personal bike path. When I started the switchbacks downhill, I had one car pass me going uphill. Then one motorcycle. I was dumped onto the new highway for less than a mile. I was happy I hadn't ridden that. There was a wide shoulder and a passing lane, but it's not the same as climbing in the trees. Once I started the switchbacks going down, the trees disappeared. After the new highway section, I was back over on the old Highway. It had been chip sealed in 2022 (I got that info from another journal). As I dropped in elevation, I could feel the heat building up. It felt like an oven. I was only three miles from town when I saw a loaded cyclist heading my way! The last touring cyclist we saw was Mike and Sue in Newport. I stopped and talked to Ben from Wisconsin. He had spent the night from Riggins and was hoping to ride to Kooskia. I was relieved to be almost done with my day and felt sorry for him to have nine miles more of climbing to go. I did point out to him that he would enjoy downhilling the Harpster Grade.
Three more miles. Yahoo! What a great day. I hope Jacinto has half of good of a time.
I watched for a store as I rolled into town. There was nothing. The general store was permanently closed. At the motel, I chatted with the owner Barb, for a few minutes. She said they get quite a few cyclists, that the smart ones do their research and stay in White Bird, to hit the big climb first thing in the morning. I had to ask the cleaning lady for ice. They have a small, personal machine in the laundry room. Ice, a shower, and wi-fi. What else do I need when I hit town? Food - not having a store is a problem. We expected that store to be open. I walked the one block to Red's Restaurant. I ordered a full taco salad - only because it's available just on Tuesdays. It was pretty ordinary. But I was hungry. The other choices were pizza and burgers. We will be back for dinner. I took half of the salad back for Jacinto. I had hardly gotten to the room when he rolled up. Jacinto said he saw only two logging trucks, and they both moved over. He had a good day, but wasn't over the top happy like me. I've decided that I consider climbs to be something I need to conquer - an adversary to be overcome. Jacinto approaches climbs with a big smile - any opportunity to sweat on his phone is welcome. That's the basic difference here. I'm capable, but it's not fun. I feel relief at the top of every climb. Is it a DNA thing to enjoy climbing? I don't know.
Here we are - safe and sound and in a great room. Tomorrow we ride to Riggins. There's road construction on the way, but Ben said in our direction the new pavement has already been laid.
I hope your ride today was as satisfying as mine.
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1 month ago
1 month ago
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1 month ago
Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 1,334 miles (2,147 km)
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1 month ago
1 month ago
It was definitely better than the Payday bars I've burned out on.
1 month ago
1 month ago
You were wise to avoid Lamb Grade coming out of Stites yesterday, 3+ miles at 12-15 percent. Brutal.
1 month ago
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1 month ago