To Harpster, ID

July 8, 2024

Heart

Comment

I bicycled this direction 20some years ago on an organized ACA tour. The memory is a bit fuzzy, but I do remember White Bird Grade as going on forever and ever. It was beautiful, but difficult. Just the sort of ride Jacinto loves! This has been hanging over me the entire trip. Jacinto pointed out by the time we've been on the road for six weeks, we should have enough legs for a couple of climbs. But, it's easy to let my mind get the better of me. I didn't sleep well last night for thinking of the climb, and could hardly keep my breakfast down.

To add to my woes, we are in a heat wave. I climb slowly, and overheat easily. As much as we didn't appreciate the snow by Babb, MT - we don't need a heatwave either! It occurred to me that the yurt I found out in the middle of nowhere to break up the climb might not have AC. I called and asked. No, no AC. They have only RV spots, and two yurts. No options with AC. I went back and looked at the route.I thought the extra 2,000 feet of climbing to Grangeville was out of my capabilities. The yurt it is. They do have a lounge we can hang out in that has AC.

I was awake at 4:30, and didn't really get back to sleep. Breakfast would hardly go down. I need to get on the road and start turning the pedals. Then my nerves will calm down.

Today is Monday. People are back to work after the holiday weekend. Highway 12 had fresh pavement with a mostly wide shoulder for 8 miles. Traffic was enjoyably light. The logging trucks must have had a long weekend. I don't think of that industry as one that pays much attention to holidays. However, we didn't see a single truck, and now I'd guesstimate that logging trucks and double dump trucks were the most common vehicle on the road today. They were all professionals and gave me plenty of room. I had a couple of friendly honks today. That always puts a smile on my face. Jacinto says he seldom has people honk at him. Perhaps it's my odd looking recumbent that attracts people?

A feature the past couple of days that I haven't mentioned is the frequently porta potties along the river. They almost always have a full size trash can next to them. It seems to me that the road sides here are cleaner. Perhaps Idaho is onto something? People don't litter if they know a trash can is readily available?

I kept waiting for at least some sort of climb. Today went easily. I felt a little silly for all of my consternation. At least I could be worrying on a day that was worthy of my concern! RWGPS said this was a 1,900 foot climbing day. Instead, I didn't even have 1,200 feet. I think I could have gone on to Grangeville - especially if RWGPS was going to be incorrect about that 2,000 foot climb. But, here we are.

I enjoyed the ride today on Highway 12. The road surface and shoulder width varied, depending on the mile. There was some brand new pavement with an ill placed rumble strip. I also had old pavement with no shoulder at all. It was a mixed bag. But, there wasn't much traffic, so not having a shoulder wasn't a huge concern.

I remembered camping in this area with the ACA group. But I couldn't remember just where. I remembered being really hot and getting in the river in my bike clothes to cool off. I think it was in Kooskia. That town is larger than Kamiah. Kooskia looks more prosperous than I remember. At that point I turned onto Highway 13. I really did think the road would start climbing, but it did not.

I was reeling the miles in. This turned out to be another easy, cruising day. Look at me! It's too bad the yurt wasn't a few more miles down the road. I could see it as I came up to the RV Park. It didn't look desirable. The man had told me he put a couple of fans in the yurt for us and left keys on the table so we could get in the shower house. I looked inside both yurts. Bare bones - but they did have a fridge and microwave, and plug ins. There were two very rough picnic tables outside with bird poop all over. I sat at the one that had the most shade, and ate my soggy leftover Subway sandwich. I debated at my place in life that I didn't mind staring at bird poop while I ate.

Then I went for a shower. The shower house is in the same building as the store and restaurant. I use that word loosely. They have a one room grill, and if you order something, the cashier from the store goes and makes it for you. There is a very heavy smell of cooking grease in the entire building. We are allowed to sit in the lounge area. It has a couch and 4-5 easy chairs. The grease smell was so heavy that I'm now outside under the pavilion.

Jacinto left at 10 AM - early for him. I can see him on Strava. He's perhaps five miles out. Let's see what he thinks of our accommodations. For someone who grew up sleeping on the dirt floor in Mexico, he's kind of picky.

I don't see any gallons of water for sale in the store and there's no ice machine. I've asked twice for ice for my water bottle, which they got out of the back somewhere, but I think asking a third time is too much. Maybe they have bags of ice for sale?

Should I have a hamburger or a cheeseburger tonight? That's the choices. I'm happy to have a choice - either one is better than a can of chili!

Later - Jacinto is in. He says I'm lucky I'm not a widow and he is never ever riding Highway 12 again. What a totally different experience. Jacinto said that the many logging trucks didn't give him even a foot of extra space. He said traffic was light in general, the trucks could definitely move over, they chose not to. He was relieved to get off at Kamiah for a back road diversion with more climbing to Kooskia. Then he felt on Highway 13 traffic in general reduced. He only saw three trucks in the 12 miles after he got on 13. Jacinto rides with two lights, a safety triangle, and a bright orange shirt. Which is what I ride with also. I think perhaps vehicles give me more room because my recumbent is odd looking? This has come up before when touring, that I think I get more room, and my companions feel they don't get enough.

Jacinto has showered and we are sitting back in the AC on the couch. It's going to be a long afternoon. Our yurt is roasting. Jacinto thinks once the shadows hit it, it will cool off. But that will take hours.