August 16, 2000
Pormork
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The cyclist at the waterfall, an Icelander said to me Pormork or Thormork as it is sometime spelled is probably how most of Iceland looked when The Vikings arrived in the 9th Century. Then it is thought that the island was covered in forest. The viking settlers deforested it for farming, using the trees for firewood and overgrazed what remained with sheep bare of vegetation until looking like most of the country is today.
My campsite was not far away and I must be getting lazy because, I didn't get up until 9.30 and it was after 11 before I got away. At least there is only 28 km to Pormork, but shortly after leaving the wind strengthened and it's not all that warm. The track is bad being made of river stones. Also its looking like I'll be going to bed with wet feet later because there are some big river crossings.
After an hour at walking pace on the chaos of river stones, I had to stop for an early lunch. Somehow I always feel better in the afternoon. The place is a pleasant spot of wild grasses with a netted sheep-fence to sit down and relax against. There is a good view down the valley and up the valley, I see the Myradalurjokull glacier.
In the afternoon the weather improves with a break in the cloud, blue sky and sunshine; while the way on was further slowed by the many river crossings. I felt lucky approaching the campsite that there were footbridges over three really big rivers which I would be unable to cross otherwise.
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