August 8, 2000
A Day At Askja
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Waking up to fine weather I was glad to be going nowhere far today. I relaxed for 2 hours after breakfast drinking tea while looking at the lumar surroundings. Then with food for lunch packed in my rucksack, I set off at 11 walking up to the Viti crater. The 8 km track was cut through fresh lava like a frozen black river the breadth of the valley from a recent volcanic eruption in 1961. The last few kilometres was across a plateau plain with mountain ridges on all sides. It took two and half hours to reach Viti and there were quite a few others there already, some taking a dip in the cream coloured warm water in the bottom of the crater. Beside Viti is the wide expands of Oskjovatn lake, the deepest in Iceland formed from volcanic activity. It was easy to spend the whole afternoon up here looking at this silent lifeless place that felt otherworldly.
On the way back to the huts, I got a lift riding on the bumper of a French couple's campervan and while the vehicle lurched over the bumps of the track, I enjoyed the view down in the golden light of evening across plains of lava and pumice towards distant mountains with Mount Heidubreid to the northeast, Snaefell to the east and around to the south, Kverkfoll at the edge of Vatnajokull, the white expands of which visible above a haze of a sandstorm.
Back at the huts I had a look at my water carrying capacity and see I have 8 litres, enough if I economise for 3 days. Also, I look at what food I have left and if I keep eating as I am doing, I've enough for 8 days.
The warden at the huts has been very helpful, she even made me coffee and told me most who cycle south from Askja give up because there is 35 km of sand which have to be walked. Those approaching Askja from the south have no choice but to continue, because it is too far to go back. They usually arrive here completely exhausted and ask us not to advise anybody else to go this way. Only last week, three English cyclists set off south, but gave up after 10 km and thumbed a lift back. They decided to climb Heidubreid instead, so they had something to show for their time.
She went on to advise me on the way, saying after 35 km of sands the wet quick sand (an area of countless small glacier streams divided by sand bars) is reached. It is safe on a bike to continue on the quick sand, though a car can get bogged down if they stop. At the end of this section there is a fork with alternative south and northern route. The Northern just goes through sand and lava, while the Southern route is impressive, climbing up to 1400 metres along the edge of Vatnajokull. She leafed through a coffee table book showing photos from the Southern Route, emphasising that once the long walking section is put behind me, the rest of the way is rideable and rewarding.
I lay down to sleep that night nervous of what to expect tomorrow.
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