July 30, 2018
Jasper to Beauty Creek Hostel
I was craving a full eggs-and-bacon breakfast and a latte. It was surprisingly challenging to find both of these items in one restaurant—I found a Smitty’s (no espresso drinks) and a couple of bakery-cafés—until a couple of locals suggested Wicked Coffee, just at the edge of town. No omelettes, so I had scrambled eggs, bacon, hash browns, and toast. Ok, but I’ve had better. The coffee was very good.
Stomach sorted, I started my Garmin and rode back to the centre of town to get a map at the park info centre, and then I was on my way.
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A couple of kilometres out of town was the park gate. I was wondering where I’d get my park pass since I’d forgotten to ask at the info centre, and here was the answer. I hadn’t expected a park gate inside the national park...
Having started later then I would normally, I was soon riding in the heat. A short stop at Athabasca Falls was cooling, but I didn’t feel like lunch yet. Besides, the map said Athabasca Falls was 30 km from Jasper and my destination 85 so I wasn’t even close to half way. Garmin said I’d ridden 35, so I guess I’d faffed around in Jasper more than I thought.
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By the time I’d gone 10 km further, I was getting really hot! And my water bottles were very low. But I could make it the 7 km to Sunwapta Falls Resort where the map indicated a restaurant. When it’s over 30 degrees, I am happy to pay for a cold drink.
The restaurant was very expensive. I would have paid for a salad since I won’t get many vegetables in the next few days, but all they had was soup and stew and sandwiches. I bought an iced tea and the cashier kindly filled my bottles with water and ice. Outside, three northbound cyclists were rolling up as we chatted for a bit. They had started in Montana.
I continued south an immediately noticed that the temperature had dropped. A storm was approaching from the northwest. Could I beat it? Thirty kilometres to the hostel...
Nope. Lightning to the west followed by thunder, but no shelter anywhere. Head down and continue. The next big crack was from the east. Had it passed over? No, now it’s starting to rain with increasing intensity. There’s the sign for the Jonas campground and I can see it just off the highway. And it has a nice big cook shelter! A couple of motorcyclists were already there. I ate my lunch, read a couple of chapters of my book, and remounted for the last 8 km to the hostel.
I arrived before 5 but the main building was open. Ruth, the host, arrived soon after and settled me in. The Beauty Creek Hostel is is an HI wilderness hostel, with no running water or electricity. But it has a wash house facility so I could do a bucket-and-cup wash and feel human again.
It was quite sunny when I hung my towel and washcloth our to dry but the storm returned with rain and wind. A tree fell on the building, startling everyone. Luckily, no structural damage, though a couple of small planters on the railing were smashed.
When the tree fell, I was enjoying a beer I’d been given and writing this. Afterward, I ate dinner, sharing the table with two other cyclists from Edmonton, riding north from Lake Louise to Jasper. Like me, they were on a short break (but from their wives and kids). For one, it was his first time cycle touring, but I think he’s hooked. There was another fellow from California, cycling the Parkway on a decent-looking bike he’d rented in Banff, plus a small group of 3 adults visiting the Rockies on their way to Vancouver.
Today's ride: 90 km (56 miles)
Total: 90 km (56 miles)
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