October 21, 2019
Portalegre
The walk
With a short ride ahead of us today, Rachael decides something more is needed. We consult the maps to see if there’s a reasonable hike on route, and find a promising one: right here, starting from our hotel. It’s a roughly eight mile, flattish loop west toward the border, with only modest climbing. It sounds perfect: we can leave our bikes and luggage at the hotel, and as long as we keep a reasonable pace and are mindful of the time (meaning: I should limit the number of photo stops), we ‘ll be back in time for lunch before biking to Portalegre.
We’re a bit slow getting out the door, because it’s chilly out - probably the coldest morning since the tour began. When we do start, it’s still cold enough that Rachael wears long pants, her jacket and warm gloves. This is fine at first, but she’ll come to regret it by the time we return to the hotel and the day has warmed considerably.
It’s a great hike, and just right for the morning’s parameters. It’s a bit short on drama though, so we’ll just show you the pictures we brought back and move on.
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https://pbase.com/valterj/image/74160100
5 years ago
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The ride
We get back to the hotel at 2, have a light lunch there, and are on our bikes by 3. With only 19 miles ahead of us we have no concerns about time - but we are a bit uncertain about the weather. Some menacing clouds have developed over the last hour or so, and we wonder if we made a mistake by not riding first and finding a hike somewhere at the other end.
About two miles into the ride we feel a few large drops land, but they amount to nothing and soon pass on. Our concern about weather was unnecessary, but another lies ahead: the hills.
First though, I have an urgent task to dispense. I awoke this morning to the realization that I’ve neglected the poor Grumby Bottle Opener since leaving Portland. It’s my fault - I put him on airplane mode and stashed him away before the flight because I didn’t want him harassing the flight attendants or creating an embarrassing scene. By muting him though, I took away his ability to cry out for attention and then just forgot about him. I feel terrible.
One thing about GBO though - stainless steel objects have a poor inner clock, so he really doesn’t know how long he’s been out of the action. No need to rub in the fact that he’s missed the whole first five weeks of the adventure - I act as though we’re just starting out here at the Portuguese border, and he’s fine once he gets his first view of Marvao.
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You can see the joy in his stripes. He loves Portugal already.
Oh, the places the GBO will go!
5 years ago
5 years ago
We're so happy that you've given the little guy these incredible experiences!
5 years ago
We’ve found a very quiet route into Portugal, one that starts by backtracking the first few miles of our hike and then keeps going to the border on a tiny rural road. It’s an interesting transition, with us not really certain when we’ve crossed over because there’s no signage indicating it.
We certainly know we’ve made a transition though, because within just a couple of miles everything changes. Houses suddenly have that characteristic Portuguese style, whitewashed with pastel trim; it’s suddenly much greener; cats and dogs are everywhere; the woods are thick with chestnuts; and of course the language is different.
The big change though is the contour. Suddenly we’re facing some seriously steep slopes that quickly push us into our lowest gear and just keep climbing. On one of them, Rachael dismounts because she’s concerned about a passing car on the narrow, curving road - but then she’s stuck because it’s so steep that she can’t get going again and is faced with a quarter mile pusher.
Nineteen miles is nothing, but we’re both well fried by the time we finally crest the final summit and see Portalegre far below us and still five miles off. We cruise in by 6, check in to our hotel, and start dealing with a language we barely know ten words of. It will take us another day before we remember to say obrigado instead of gracias.
We’ll be here two nights, so we’ve got a bit of time to refresh our memories on how to say goodbye.
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Video sound track: Havana Vieja, by Willie & Lobo
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Ride stats today: 19 miles, 2,200’; for the tour: 941 miles, 48,300’
Today's ride: 19 miles (31 km)
Total: 943 miles (1,518 km)
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3 years ago
I stayed two nights there. The hotel was quite reasonable and I didn't like the idea of all that climbing for just a day.
I see the cistern was empty on your visit.
3 years ago