April 12, 2022 to April 15, 2022
Lagos
For our first break on this trip (do we need a holiday from the holiday?) we were lucky to pick a couple of beautiful, sunny days in Lagos, 25 degree temperatures and incredible scenery. The coastline at Lagos has got to be one of the all time bests. We spent a good part of the two days walking and exploring the caves, grottoes and towers of coloured limestone along the shoreline. The first day we ambled into town through the 16th century walls that enclose the old town and out to the promenade on the river Rio Bensafrim before turning west to meander along the crisscross of trails on the cliffs. First past the Fort and the Batata and Estudantes Beaches before venturing further south of Lagos to the Ponta da Piedade (Point of Pity), a dramatic headland of weathered and eroded limestone complete with a lighthouse on top. It is scary to see how easy it would be to lose your footing on the trails and the 100 foot plus fall could be deadly, it is even more amazing that the cliff edges are not fenced off. (Why haven't the American liability lawyers taken over yet?) Yet there are all types of people crawling all over the cliffs, and in this age of social media, even wannabe influencers perching precariously on ledges to get that perfect shot. We, along with everyone else, climbed up and down stairs and pathways marvelling at the holes in the rocks, and watching the motor boats and kayakers glide through the tunnels of weathered limestone.
In the afternoon Steve got his hands greasy with some overdue bike maintenance: changing the cassettes and the chains. We are looking forward to better shifting and more effortlessly cycling in the days to come - and glad to have the spare parts out of the panniers.
We had spotted an inviting restaurant and called to make a reservation for supper, but were thwarted to learn that they were fully booked for the next two nights. If we didn't know before, it was obvious that the tourists have arrived for the Easter break. Instead we chose a more moderate family-run taverna and were surprised to find it full as well, but we could have a picnic table on their glassed in patio. We much enjoyed our table to watch a large three generational Portuguese family with toddlers in tow, spend a languorous evening together for a dinner out.
The next day we hopped on our bikes to test out the bike mechanic's handy-work by riding, unloaded, out to Porto De Mos beach. We locked the bikes, and joined the families and couples hanging out at the beach for the day. Without swimsuits and not wanting to sit for long, we strolled all the way past the surfers to the base of the limestone cliff that comes right to the water marking the end of this beach, before turning back.
We managed to get a table for lunch at the Alma Lusa restaurant (the one that's fully booked the two nights we are in Lagos) where we thoroughly enjoyed their mid day repast and a chance as well to be out of the noon day sun. Steve had grilled squid and Ann a fresh barata cheese, pesto and tomato salad. We were glad we persisted in our dining choice, and after our leisurely lunch, we wandered home for an afternoon nap.
After a modest supper in our kitchen we headed out for an evening walk to explore Lagos as the sun was setting. The temperature had dropped considerably and we were glad to have put on our puffy coats. There was plenty of action in the bars and restaurants. We could feel the vibe in the air with people excited to be travelling, to be out, to be enjoying life once again, however we are still cautious and the thought of being sidelined by Covid stopped us from joining the crowds. Hopefully we will be more inclined once it is warmer.
Today's ride: 20 km (12 miles)
Total: 337 km (209 miles)
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