Baena to Jaen

May 1, 2022

This morning over breakfast we met the only other guests in our tiny guest house, not surprisingly, they were a Dutch cycling couple.

They had just spent the last two weeks cycling from Valencia, the route we have been planning to do in the opposite direction. We knew though that up until Jaen, today’s destination, we could change our minds and instead head to Grenada and make our way to Valencia along the coast if travelling through the interior was too difficult. However, after our conversation this morning, we are excited to be continuing with our original plans, traveling through the interior of Andalusia through some incredible parks. All the Dutch cyclists have a book by a fellow Dutchman, Benjaminse Vitgeverij called Cycling Europe-Spain. Vitgeverij has detailed cycling information along with what to see and where to stay for many routes in Europe. Apparently all the routes are available on GPS for free on his website- www.cyclingeurope.nl but we couldn't find the free downloads with our limited Dutch vocabulary. We took a few pictures from the book of the maps for the next week before we parted ways.

They also recommended that we take the Via Verde route from Baena to Jaen which they rode yesterday. We have been wary of of the Via Verde routes after some very rough paths and lots of mud, but they assured us it was smooth riding and a terrific ride. Cycling alongside cars is stressful so today on rail trails, mostly on paved or hard packed gravel, was wonderful. It almost felt like a day off the bikes. For 76 km we rode through olive groves. This route shows what a monoculture looks like, perfectly symmetrically planted trees. It is scary when you think about what it might be doing to the soil, or what happens when there is a blight, but for seeing it for the first time, it is mesmerizing to look at. One crop for as far as you can see in any direction for 70km.

The pleasure of a rail trail is that the steep hills and valleys have been moderated and we appreciated the trestle bridges for more than just the views of the gorges we didn't have to ride up and down, and the tunnels for more than just a cool break from the heat. We met lots of cyclists, especially for the first third of the way: a few cycle touring couples or solo cyclists and tons of Sunday day trippers on gravel or mountain bikes. From Baena it’s up and down but with more ups so that you climb to Martos, then it’s downhill to Torresdonjimenco and then a real drop down the last 15km into Jaen. Today was a great ride and we recommend to anyone coming this way.

Jaen is an impressive town too. Even with the downhill to get here, Jaen still sits tucked half way up a mountainside with the remains of a castle perched even higher above it. On checking in to the hotel another cycle tourer was checking in too and, you guessed it, he is Dutch!

Even with the end of the day’s super glide to Jaen, it had been a 936m gain of elevation and a late 7pm arrival so we were beat and hungry. A quick change and we joined the crowds out on the plazas celebrating May Day and a holiday Monday.

We found a bench in a quiet corner to call our kids as this is a big day for the Maher/Weary family. As they both wrote their last undergrad exams they are moving, our daughter is leaving the five bedroom house she shared with classmates into an apt on her own that she is subletting for the summer and our son is starting a masters in education on Tuesday and is moving into our condo which we took possession of today! Very exciting times. Lots to celebrate and be grateful for.

Leaving Baena, beautiful in the morning light. Another sunny day.

Train station revamped as a way station for cyclists at Luque.

Mountains in the distance on the Aciete Via Verde Rail Trail.

The trail is almost overgrown with spring wildflowers in full bloom.

Looking down from a bridge to a valley avoided.

These trees are why it's called the Via Verde del Aceite, the olive oil trail.

Crossing one of the bridges that still have the railroad ties as a base.

Today's ride: 77 km (48 miles)
Total: 1,016 km (631 miles)

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Kathy GrebencHi Ann and Steve! The pics and the storyline tell it all. What a fabulous trip. Glad you have gone off the beaten track but not too far off. I have never been Seville but know it is a place to be visited. Beautiful when seen through lenses. Hope the wind is at your back and the sun shines on you both, Kathy G
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyHi Kathy
Thanks for following along. Yes it has been a wonderful trip so far. We took today off the bikes cause of the rain. Glad to do very little. Happy birthday to Johanne!! See you soon!
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetWe enjoyed the bit of that Via Verde that we rode, the part you didn’t, I think.

We also have a new graduate living in our new home, though we had a month there before our trip and he moved in just before we left. I hope yours has fewer deficiencies to deal with!
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2 years ago

Kathleen WearyJust hit the 1000k mark!!!
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2 years ago