May 9, 2022
Alcaraz to Albacete
Finding accommodation this last week has been more challenging in our preferred window of 60km a day, forcing us to shorter days (wonderful) and longer ones, like today. The map showed an 80km ride (which always ends up longer with detours and getting off track) so we were up early and cycling in the cool but on empty stomachs with breakfast promised an hour down the road. There is a Via Verde the whole way to Albacete but the paved road is enticing and car free at this time of the day so we opt for an hour on the A32 to Robledo. What we hadn’t anticipated was another pass, before coffee! It was a slow grind up but then a lovely coast into Robledo. We found a grocery store with oranges and milk for our cereal but no coffee shop open to greet us.
As traffic was still quiet we decided to continue on the road another 10km to Los Chospes before turning onto the trail. We love cycling on pavement but we love trails even more with no vehicles, but paved trails, please. As you turn off the highway the first thing that hits you is the quietness and then the sounds of the birds. Lovely. The Dutch cyclists had said that this Via Verde was good, some pavement but mostly crushed stone. It was great for the first while but soon turned to bumpy gravel. We think the Dutch had much wider, softer tires. A highlight was to pass through 8 (or more) tunnels; the first were short and signposted "sin illumination" then a couple of long ones "con illumination" with lights coming on just ahead set off by motion detectors. So we were unprepared for a long and very dark tunnel "sin illumination" with only a slight glow from the end so we could barely see the walls but nothing on the ground (was that gooey patch a mud puddle or a nest of vipers?). For the next two we dug out our front lights which at least showed the ground a few feet in front but it was still a little unnerving to be riding blind into the dark void; on the plus side they were refreshingly cool on a hot sunny day.
Steven could smell garlic and imagined a large plate of something roasted for lunch. We were tired when we pulled into Balazote after 50km, looking for the elusive cafe/restaurant. Once again not to be found. A grocery store filled our needs and then we joined an Italian cycle touring couple on park benches for lunch. Language issues made it difficult but we learned they were heading to Morocco. We had bought half a chilled watermelon which we shared. It was well appreciated by all with the heat of the noon day sun. Once out of town we smelled garlic again and realized we were cycling through huge fields of the stuff.
The afternoon was a very long 30km of bone jarring Via Verde, but when we looked over at the highway traffic we chose bumps over trucks. Once we got to the outskirts of Albacete the trail was paved and, of course, ever more alive with walkers, joggers and cyclists. We found our apartment and made sure there was a functional kitchen, then found a grocery store to fill the fridge. We are here two nights to recharge and plan the next week as we move ever closer to Valencia.
| Heart | 4 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 4 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Today's ride: 86 km (53 miles)
Total: 1,418 km (881 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 5 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |