January 10, 2018
Hawi
Today’s ride to Hawi is almost a mirror image of yesterday’s: ride about 20miles to Hawi, then take an out and back spur to a different spectacular viewpoint and hike down to the beach.
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Waimea lies on the lee side of ancient Mount Kohala, the million year old volcano that formed the northwest corner of the island. It is a geologically and ecologically unique area, influenced both by the severity of the landscape and the strong trade winds. On the windward side of the crest is a cloud forest, receiving over 150 inches of rain per year; just ten miles to the west at the coast is a desert, receiving only five inches per year. The immense sea cliffs, such as the ones we saw in the Waipio Valley yesterday, are some of the highest in the world.
Our ride to Hawi climbs gradually to the crest on the leeward side. It is a beautiful climb, crossing bright green pastures broken with outcrops of ancient volcanic activity. For me, it was the most enjoyable climb of this short tour.
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We’re definitely going the right direction today, effort-wise. It was a bit over a thousand foot climb to the summit starting from the south. Ahead of us is a fifteen mile, 3,000’ drop to the seaside plateau. It’s a nice, steady descent - not too steep to be able to relax and enjoy, but just a bit rough surfaced. There’s enough traffic this morning on this narrow shoulderless road that you need to keep focus.
Immediately after crossing the crest the road enters what appears to be a forest. We’re still on the leeward side though, and this is just a veneer. The road for the next five miles is lined with a band of what I think is a variety of pine; just on the other side of the trees it’s still the same open, beautiful green expanse we rode through on the ascent. This is ranch country; peek through the trees and you’ll see horses and cattle wandering the slopes, and sheep clustered in heaps in the shade of the trees.
Finally leaving this tree tunnel, we’re back in the open again, coasting into this gorgeous landscape, with the sea far below and Maui on the horizon. Rachael’s video gives a good feel for this terrific ride.
Our descent ends in Kapaa, where we stop and enjoy a panini break before continuing oncoutheast to the end of the road at the Palalu Valley overlook. This feels like a twin to the Waipio overlook from yesterday. The two valleys bracket the roadless, wild Kohala Forest Reserve; and the views of the incredible cliffs plunging to the sea are just as inspir8ng from this side as from Waipio. Looking down the line of headlands visible from this end, I imagine the farthest one out is the one seen from the opposite side yesterday.
Like Waipio, this is a famously scenic spot and very popular. We start encountering cars parked beside the road a quarter mile before the trailhead. As we bike past them, folks on top of the berm beside the road give us a round of applause to cheer us on.
The path down to the beach is steep, but easier going than the paved grade to Waipio. Partway down, a biker climbing back out offers me his walking stick and I gratefully accept it. I stash it in a safe spot at the bottom, and after we’ve enjoyed the beautiful black sand beach for as long as we feel we can afford, I retrieve it for use on the climb up. Near the top I hand it off to another elderly gent on his way down. I wonder how man round trips that stick makes each day?
The seven mile backtrack from the trailhead to Hawi is surprisingly arduous. Crossing one shallow ravine after another, we’re constantly rising and falling - we climb almost 800’ on this stretch with almost no net change in elevation. It’s been a pretty easy ride today, but I’m starting to feel the effect of eight straight riding days. I’ll be ready for a day off after we return to Kailua tomorrow.
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Total elevation gain:today, 2,800’; for the tour, 26,700’
Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 374 miles (602 km)
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