Day 14: Livingston to Bozeman

July 22, 2024

I got up at 7:20 and ate breakfast in my room. It's nice to have a fridge and microwave for once. It saves time compared to going to a restaurant for breakfast. Of course a breakfast served by the motel would be even faster, but that only happens at the big chain motels.

On the road before 8:30. I pedaled uphill pretty much all morning. West from downtown Livingston on Business 90. Then cross under I-90 and follow the frontage road west towards Bozeman Pass.

Montana is the only state that maintains memorials for highway fatalities.

I had the usual blue sky with a bit of smoky haze. Smoke affects distant views, but I never smell it.

I appreciated that the landscape is much greener than it was when the tour started. It feels good to see the change. Forest began at 7000 feet elevation in Wyoming. Forest begins at 5000 feet elevation in Montana. I'm finally in one of my favorite environments for bike touring-high desert near forested mountains.

Enjoying the verdant hills and farms on north and east facing slopes.

I stopped to look at an interpretive sign about the Lewis and Clark Corps of Discovery expedition that passed through the Yellowstone valley in 1806 when returning to the east. I was somewhat familiar with the Lewis and Clark routes, but didn't realize that this tour follows a Lewis and Clark route. Somehow my pre-tour research missed that bit of history.

I am familiar with the Adventure Cycling Association Lewis and Clark bicycle route which goes well north of the Yellowstone river, probably close to their 1804 route going west.

Before this tour I wasn't aware that the Lewis and Clark expedition returned via the Yellowstone River in 1806.

During this tour I saw many historic markers, but few interpretive signs with detailed text and photos. I think the region could use more interpretive signs.

Frontage road climbing towards Bozeman pass alongside I-90.

Today's route climbs 1250 feet and descends 250 feet alongside I-90. Then to avoid riding on I-90 I turned right onto Jackson Creek road which goes north, climbing steadily. I enjoyed the quiet serenity after hearing I-90 traffic for hours.

I stopped at the little community of Malmborg. Former community actually. The 1905 school and one tiny historic building are all that is left of the town. The small building now houses a group of mailboxes for a gated rural subdivision that is so rural that I couldn't see a single house from the gate.

This building conceals mailboxes at the entrance to a gated rural subdivision.

Near the top of the climb I passed an aspen grove that must have been planted. If aspens grow near here, their normal environment is much higher than 5500 feet elevation.

The only aspen grove I saw during this tour.

Near the summit I started to have hazy views of the Bridger mountains to my west. They are a minor mountain range.

I climbed 410 feet on Jackson Creek road to a 5868 foot summit which is the second highest summit of the tour. Gentle grade, less than one car per minute. An excellent cycling route.

Beginning of an 1100 foot descent to Bozeman.

I like long descents that have a mountain view ahead. The High Desert region seldom has trees that obstruct the mountain views.

Forested near the summit. First panoramic view of Bridger mountains.

The final descent to Bridger canyon has views of a burned mountainside. It was the only scene during this tour that reminded me of my Destruction and Renewal bike tour in May.

Final descent to Bridger canyon. Burned mountainside ahead.

The descent continues in Bridger canyon. I turned left onto MT 86 which goes south to Bozeman. This road has more traffic. Some big trucks and a narrow shoulder. Not as tranquil as the previous road, but not bad.

During the descent I saw two loaded touring cyclists going the opposite direction. First touring cyclists I've seen since I talked to one touring cyclist on day 1.

MT 86 descending to Bozeman in Bridger Canyon.

I stopped to look at an old school in the little community of Lower Bridger. This route is surprisingly unpopulated considering that I'm approaching a metro area of 120,000 people.

MT 86 becomes Rouse Avenue in Bozeman. I followed it all the way to downtown. Heavy traffic, but also a rare bike lane.

The temperature rose to 90F during the long early afternoon descent. I stopped to cool down in shady Creekside Park across the street from Bozeman city hall. I noticed something sitting on a park bench and went over to have a look. I found a little bag containing 1 gram of cannabis, a small glass pipe, and a BIC lighter. In all my travels I have never seen free cannabis on a park bench.

Spotted on a park bench in Creekside Park in Bozeman.

I stopped several times to look around downtown Bozeman. I spend only one night, so I don't have a lot of time to explore. I hoped to stay at a boutique hotel called The Lark on the west side of downtown. I could have booked a room in January for only $300. But when I made reservations 6 weeks ago the price was almost $500. So I booked a different motel 6 blocks farther from downtown for "only" $300.

Bozeman is expensive like Jackson, Wyoming south of Yellowstone. Later I learned that it's currently the fastest growing city in the nation. Since 1990 the population has grown from 21,000 to 56,000. Bozeman is the only cosmopolitan city near Yellowstone. High income knowledge workers who have the option to live and work anywhere in the world choose to live in Bozeman to be near Yellowstone and world class fishing and skiing. The COVID pandemic accelerated this process.

The west side of downtown Bozeman is full of construction cranes. The two mile corridor between downtown and Montana State University is filling in with 4-6 story condos, apartments, and 4 star hotels. Some local people manage to profit from the influx of wealthy new residents. But many local people are priced out of the housing market over time.

Another unique thing I noticed about Bozeman is that the area near the university has a cannabis shop on nearly every block. My motel office said that the area near the university has about 20 cannabis shops. Montana is famously libertarian...

I didn't go back to downtown in the evening to see the lights at twilight because it was inconveniently far and I was tired after a big day of climbing.

Bozeman is in Gallatin county. I'm near the Gallatin river but haven't seen it yet.

1936 Gallatin County Courthouse. A little bit Neoclassical, a little bit Art Deco.

The inner city of Bozeman was mostly built in the early 20th century, so it has an abundance of Craftsman style homes. I like that. Unfortunately, more and more blocks of Craftsman style homes are being replaced by multi-story condo buildings.

Central city Bozeman is mostly Craftsman style houses.

In the evening I walked a few blocks to take a photo of the Lewis and Clark motel sign near sunset. It has an impressive Las Vegas style sign with many light bulbs. The motel was built in 1976, so I'm certain that Lewis and Clark never stayed there.

Lewis and Clark Motel has an impressive lighted sign. One of many construction cranes in the distance.

A food truck court is across the street from my motel, between cannabis shops. I ate a burrito from a food truck, then walked a block north to have two beers at a local brewery. Later I walked to Dairy Queen and had a small Blizzard treat. Burrito, beer, ice cream. All the important food groups!

Tonight's home is the retro Sapphire Motel. $303, and it doesn't include breakfast. But the room is very stylish and the motel is very clean and tidy. It sort of qualifies as a boutique motel. I arrived at 3:05 PM but waited until much later to take a photo of the motel's awesome neon sign. The motel has been owned by the same family since it was built.

Tonight's home is Sapphire Motel. Bridger mountains in the distance.

Today had more climbing than any other day of this tour. The top of the first big climb was 6% grade, but most of the climbing was gentle. Today had the last big climb of the tour, so I am very confident that I can finish this tour as planned.

Scenery was outstanding today. Today's route is excellent for cycling even though the first half is alongside I-90. Light winds, mildly visible smoke. High temperature of 92F was close to normal.

Distance: 36.3 miles
Average Speed: 7.5 mph
Ascent/Descent: +1912/-1494 feet

Today's ride: 36 miles (58 km)
Total: 545 miles (877 km)

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