Day 12: Big Timber to Livingston

July 20, 2024

Today is an easy day. Short and flat, but gentle upstream. I got up at 6:50 and ate breakfast at the hotel restaurant. On the road at 8:30. Heat is not likely to be a problem today.

I pedaled west out of Big Timber on the Frontage road. I like the Frontage road because it has basically no traffic. That compensates for the monotony of staying close to I-90.

Today the sky has few clouds, but the smoky haze is quite visible in the distance. Smoke wasn't noticeable at ground level, though.

Absaroka mountain views were disappointing in the smoky haze.

Today's route has two segments on I-90. The first 3.6 mile segment stays close to the Yellowstone river with fabulous views. The river is on my right, so I had excellent views from the shoulder.

Riding on I-90. Few motorists actually drove 80 mph. Montana had no daytime speed limit until 1974.

Absaroka mountains, I-90, BNSF railroad, and Yellowstone river.

I suddenly had a soft front tire while riding on the shoulder of I-90. I repaired the flat on the roadside and was surprised that it was caused by a thorn, not a wire.

The second segment on I-90 is 5.4 miles long and not as scenic as the first segment. Fewer river views. Altogether I pedaled 17.4 miles on I-90 in 3 segments over 2 days. Not ideal, but not really a problem either. Bikes are allowed and it's reasonably safe.

Looking back. Yellowstone river and I-90 below.

Most of the day was on the Frontage road. Usually the Frontage road is far enough from the Interstate that the noise is not annoying. Only a few sections are within 100 feet of the Interstate where noise is a problem, but still not as noisy as riding on the shoulder of the Interstate.

View from the Frontage road when it was close to I-90.

Shade was hard to find today. I took two rest stops under I-90 overpasses.

Looking south into the sun at the Absaroka mountains.

I crossed the Yellowstone river for the last time just before rolling into Livingston. From here the river turns south towards Yellowstone National Park. I won't go that direction.

Yellowstone river looking upstream towards Yellowstone National Park.

The final 3 miles to Livingston are on "Business 90" with heavy traffic. I arrived in Livingston at 2:45 and pedaled past my motel to see the downtown area. Temperature was 88F, not bad.

Livingston is a very attractive town mostly built from 1890 to 1920. It was founded to serve wealthy tourists who arrived via train, then traveled to Yellowstone in stagecoaches. During that time Livingston was the only gateway to Yellowstone National Park.

I wanted to stay at the historic Murray Hotel in the middle of downtown, but wasn't willing to pay the price. Livingston is a popular Yellowstone gateway. I booked lodging only 6 weeks in advance and my stay includes a Saturday night. The only available room was a suite that cost $880 for two nights. Instead I booked a very ordinary room at Country Motor Inn 3/4 mile away that cost only $400 for two nights. It's old and plain with A/C, microwave, and fridge, but no breakfast.

My only regret about planning this tour was that I waited too late to make reservations. If I booked in January I probably could have stayed 2 nights in a regular room at Murray Hotel for less than $600. That's about what I paid for 2 nights at the Irma Hotel in Cody.

Across the street from Murray Hotel is the grand Northern Pacific Railway station and office building. BNSF railroad still operates freight trains but passenger service ended long ago.

Northern Pacific Railway station and office in Livingston.

On the way back to my motel I stopped to look down Main Street which has very impressive rows of old buildings. Livingston catered to wealthy visitors. Businesses competed to make facilities as deluxe and attention-getting as possible.

I didn't eat lunch today because the route has no stores or restaurants. After checking in to Country Motor Inn I walked 3/4 mile back to downtown for an early dinner, disappointed that my motel isn't closer to downtown.

I had dinner at the fancy bar at The Mint Bar and Grill. In my travels I don't recall seeing a bar named Mint. But I learned that Montana has 14 taverns named Mint. I'm guessing that the name refers to a mint that makes coins and not to the mint plant. And I'm guessing the Mint name is popular because Montana has so many mines, even though Montana has no mint that makes coins.

I ate at the bar at The Mint Bar and Grill.

Evening on Main Street in Livingston, Montana.

Today was a great day. High of only 90F. Gentle headwind most of the day, but a brisk tailwind near the end. Gentle terrain, great river views. Smoke impaired distant views but wasn't a problem at ground level.

Tomorrow is a rest day in Livingston, the last of 3 rest days in historic tourist towns.

Distance: 37.4 miles
Average Speed: 8.4 mph
Ascent/Descent: +707/-310 feet

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 508 miles (818 km)

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Gregory GarceauEvery couple of years, my wife and I drive back and forth from Minneapolis-St. Paul to Spokane to visit her side of the family. Usually, in the interest of time, we stick to I-90. That area around Livingston is the best part of the route. We never plan far enough ahead to nab any kind of motel reservation there, nor can we afford The Murray (or its fancy restaurant), but we love the mountain setting and walking around those downtown streets.
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