Day 11: Columbus to Big Timber - High Desert Rivers - CycleBlaze

July 19, 2024

Day 11: Columbus to Big Timber

Today is warm and sunny, so I got up at 6:50 and on the road before 8. Breakfast at the motel makes life easier. The temperature was a brisk 65F when I started.

I stopped to take a couple photos on the way out of Columbus. It has a population of 1903 and sprawls 1 mile from the railroad to I-90. The old downtown is one sided facing the railroad.

One more block of old buildings in Columbus, Montana.
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Freight trains still go by but they don't stop and passenger service ended ages ago.

Railroad tracks in Columbus. Big roll door added to the train station.
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A hilltop west of Columbus gave me one of the best views of Yellowstone river. Some hills are surprisingly forested considering the river is only 4000 feet elevation. Other hills have only a few widely scattered trees.

Yellowstone river.
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This is the first of several days near I-90. Most of today's ride is on the Frontage Road, but it also has an 8.4 mile segment on I-90. Most of that segment is away from the river and not very scenic. But I-90 crosses the Yellowstone river shortly before I exited. Pedaling on the Interstate is extremely loud and I have to continuously wander to avoid tire fragments on the shoulder.

Yellowstone river from I-90.
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I exited I-90 at the little village of Reedpoint, population 175. Many of the old buildings have been restored. Very sleepy now. All the traffic is on I-90.

Reedpoint, Montana. Population 175.
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Hotel Montana in Reedpoint.
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Reedpoint, Montana.
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I enjoyed the I-90 Frontage Road. It has almost no traffic, maybe a car every 5 minutes. It's well graded, near the river and railroad. But usually far enough away from I-90 that noise isn't obnoxious.

Frontage Road and Yellowstone river.
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I saw two trains today.
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I think this abandoned store is in the village of Greycliff.
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The early morning was pleasantly cool, but I felt hot for the final 15 miles to Big Timber. Temperature was 91F when I arrived at 2:45. Today was mostly sunny with only a faint smoky haze.

Big Timber, Montana.
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Big Timber, Montana.
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Big Timber is attractive but not really a tourist town. Population 1662. The downtown is built along highways two blocks away from the railroad. I-90 passes far enough away that the downtown is kind of frozen in time since 1960.

Big Timber, Montana.
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The slightly famous Timber Bar in Big Timber, Montana.
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I walked into the old pharmacy and soda fountain and ordered a Huckleberry milkshake. My first and only Huckleberry shake of the tour. It was awesome. The flavor, the cold feeling, and the burst of calories.

I had a Huckleberry milkshake at Sweet Grass pharmacy.
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Soda fountain at the pharmacy. Everything is run by one very old man.
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Big Timber, Montana.
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I checked in at the Grand Hotel at about 3:30. As expected, I had to carry my bike up 24 stairs.

Tonight's home is the 1890 Grand Hotel. Montana's oldest hotel.
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My room is small, barely big enough for the bike. All plumbing is in fancy shared facilities down the hall. The room has A/C but no TV, fridge, or microwave.

My small room at the Grand Hotel.
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I had a salmon dinner at the hotel restaurant. I can't eat beef every night. It's the main restaurant in town and the only fine dining in town.

Restaurant and bar at the Grand Hotel.
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I found two interesting neon signs in the evening. The Timber Bar neon sign is quite complex.

Timber Bar neon sign.
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The Madhatter Saloon neon sign is simpler. The saloon is no longer in business but the sign is still lit.

Madhatter Saloon is not in business but the sign is still lit.
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I enjoyed today's long miles on the no-traffic Frontage road. I even enjoyed parts of the 8.4 mile segment on I-90. And I enjoyed seeing more trees. Light wind, few insects. It was a good day's ride and Big Timber and the Grand Hotel are an interesting place for an overnight visit.

Distance: 44.7 miles
Average Speed: 8.3 mph
Ascent/Descent: +959/-478 feet

Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 471 miles (758 km)

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