Day 9, Fallon to Cold Springs Station: Sis and Doc are Forced to Abandon! Or Maybe Not?

July 31, 2017

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Mileage Today; 63 Total So Far; 388 Remaining; 1,208

Climbing Today; 2,725 Total So Far; 21,361 Remaining; 80,035

Max Grade Today; 5.3% Average Uphill Grade; 1.3%

Average Speed While Riding; 8 mph (estimate)

Mechanical Issues; None

Photos Credit; Bud, unless noted otherwise

Bud speaking:

The folks at the Holiday Inn Express were nice and made breakfast 1 hour earlier than usual so that we could enjoy a “real” hot breakfast before we left – that’s special! We had expected to just have some yogurt and maybe a bagel and hit the road about 5:00am, but since they made eggs and bacon and such just for us, it would have been impolite to not enjoy it! And so we did, and it was about 5:30 am before we got rolling. So sue us already, but that’s still an early start.

We were curious regarding these strange things on the wires; Craig Gaevert commented and explained that they are weights to keep the wires from oscillating too much in high winds. Thanks Craig, now we know, you don’t see these things in our neck of the woods.

What Are These Strange Things on the Wires? Comment if You Know

We will be traveling on or near Highway 50 for some weeks to come.

Our First Day to Really Experience the "Lonely Road" (photo credit: Doc)

Bad rumble strip design makes travel on the shoulder difficult to impossible for cyclists. Rumble strips will soon be a thing of the past anyway as autonomous vehicles come into being, and I for one hope it happens sooner than later.

The Rumble Strip Placement Means Cyclists Can't Ride the Shoulder

The heat is an issue out here, but the solar radiation is even more of a problem; it will cook your skin and give you skin cancer if you don’t protect yourself. We have tried to do so, as you can see.

Sis Reluctantly Dons More Protective Gear; The Solar Radiation is Intense

Bud Rides in Full Desert Gear (photo credit: Doc)

I really have no idea why Sis thought that a picture of an RV dump was worthwhile, but here it is. Salt Wells is little more than this.

There's Really Not Much at Salt Wells (photo credit: Sis)

How do the youngsters write graffiti when there’s nothing to write it on? They use stones to spell out words and express their love and other such trivia.

Local Youth Use Rocks to Make Desert Graffiti

We’re getting our first glimpse of the basin-range provinces of Nevada, and it’s definitely intimidating for a cyclist. It’s hard to even imagine that you can cross these vast reaches using your own power, but that’s our plan.

There's a Lot of Vastness Ahead; It's a Bit Intimidating On a Bicycle

Similar to the Great Sand Dunes in Colorado, but on a smaller scale, it’s easy to tell the dominant wind direction here as the sand gets piled up against the mountains.

Similar to the Great Sand Dunes of Colorado, Wind-Blown Sand Has Formed Giant Dunes Against the Mountains

And we successfully made our way up the first of many passes to come as each basin is flanked by ranges that must be traversed.

Our First Successful Ascent of a Nevada Pass

There are Pony Express mementos and historic reminders all along the Route 50 corridor. Our path will cross and parallel the old Pony Express Route for weeks to come.

Yep, We're Mostly Following the Old Pony Express Route

The Navy once did B-17 training using this vast valley expanse for practice.

In the Next Valley, the Navy Used to Practice B-17 Bomber Runs

Sis was lagging behind a lot, and I was concerned about her. I was ahead and crested Drumm Summit first.

As I was finishing my DSLR “selfie,” Sis and Doc rolled up.

I didn’t realize how bad Sis’s hand was hurting; apparently she had damaged a nerve from the constant pressure of riding for many hours each day, and she could barely hold onto the handlebars. I cruised on up ahead anxious to reach Middlegate Station and refuel and get some cold liquid in me; it seems that 100 degree water just isn’t all that satisfying, although it’s certainly better than no water at all. So after a bit of sustained effort, Middlegate came into sight.

Middlegate Station Was a Welcome Sight; AC, Cold Drinks, and Food

Sis and Doc weren’t all that far behind, and we parked the bikes outside and went inside and I got the news that Sis was going to have to abandon the tour. We ordered sandwiches, and ate while discussing the options; after all, we were sort-of in the middle of nowhere and abandoning the ride first meant that Sis needed to get back to civilization. Doc considered options of himself riding back to Fallon and renting a car and then returning for Sis, but it would be tomorrow before he could rent a car considering the time it would take for him to ride back. Sis could continue with me to Cold Springs Station, just another 14 miles away, and spend the night and wait for Doc to return. Doc commenced asking pickup truck drivers if they were heading back towards Fallon, at first with no luck; then they got lucky (see Doc’s story on Day 11 for the details).

As Doc and Sis headed off towards Fallon thanks to the kindness of a lady named Sarah, I rolled off towards Cold Springs Station for the night. My head was spinning; what had just happened? All our plans had changed and I found myself totally alone in the excruciating late afternoon heat. I can travel by bike alone; I did it before all the way across the U.S., so it’s not like I’m unaccustomed to it, but that wasn’t how it was supposed to be this time. I was climbing to reach Cold Springs Station, and it was harder than I expected; I think I was a bit down from the unexpected change of plans. Looks like I’m going to travel a long ways alone on this road.

My (Bud) Head is Spinning Now, as I Head Off Alone

The original Cold Springs Station supported both the Overland Stage and the Pony Express, but now all that’s left is some of the rocks.

Cold Springs Station Was Once a Stagecoach Stop and a Pony Express Outpost

The afternoon heat set off a little shower in the valley below me, and there was enough energy for a substantial dust devil (“whirling dervish”) to form. I was glad I wasn’t too close to it.

Yikes! A Dirt Devil Spun Up From the Afternoon Storm

I eventually reached Cold Springs Station, and was glad to get inside and shower. The restaurant is in the back of the bar, and I was pleasantly surprised with the food; it was great and plentiful! The place is up for sale, but hopefully the cook will stay on when/if the place is sold. Stop in for the food if you pass this way, you won’t be disappointed.

The Present-Day Cold Springs Station is My Lodging Tonight

Today was our first experience of a “no-services” stretch; it was 48 miles from Fallon to Middlegate Station. Tomorrow I get to experience a 50 mile “no-services” stretch as I roll to Austin without my traveling companions. Sigh… Good night all.

Today's ride: 63 miles (101 km)
Total: 387 miles (623 km)

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