Day 5: Pender to Mayne

October 24, 2019

Following our "master plan", today was a time to cycle around the north part of North Pender, and then to hop to Mayne Island in the afternoon. Shortly after we set off, I put it to Dodie that I would need to be specially alert to find things to observe and photograph, that would be different from yesterday. But Dodie took the position that we have to just photograph what we see, whatever that may be.

Ok fine, so I took a shot of beautiful, empty road, through fall colours - an exact representation of where we were at and what we were doing. Like this:

But yikes, suddenly the road got cancelled. Now what? (Of course, there had been a subtle hint - a sign that read No Thru Road - but on a small island no roads are thru roads!)

Now we have to look for some other beautiful road.

A an interim measure, we could entertain ourselves with some other local highlights. For example, here is an example of a "Car Stop". Analagous to a bus stop, anyone can sit here and drivers who are "with the program" will stop and give them a ride.

This will further effective use of automobiles on the island.

Or, how about these entertaining pigs!

The question of what to look at was resolved as we arrived at Hope Bay.

Hope Bay itself is beautiful, but the main attraction for us was the Gather Teahouse, plus Pender Chocolates. The teahouse was not yet open, which was good sonce we would not want to use up all the thrills at once. Instead we had a look around the dock area and then invested $6 in 5 small chocolates. They were good!

This boat looked ok at a distance but actually it is quite a wreck.

Fuelled up on chocolate, we set out for a spin around the north part of the north island. Here we found some valuable old timey things - farms that had been established in the late 1880's, old orchards with apples still on the trees and clearly not scheduled to be picked, a general store with real looking bagels, and a small area of quite deep and dark old growth forest. Have a look:

Open areas that we think date to original settlement by Europeans, which would be around 1860.

Comfortable feeling Southridge country store.

In the store, a lending library of high quality cook books.

Bulletin board showing lots of local music happening

A website about people's reasons for moving to the island.

(To check that podcast website, click here.)

This vineyard is part of one of those original farms.

There was a section of quite old looking forest.

We returned from all that, back to Hope Bay just as the teahouse was opening for lunch. We found that they were offering super high quality soup and bread, and some great baking as well. With ocean views all around, and customers glad to come and enjoy the ambiance, it was a pleasant place to be. We noticed not only a well equipped band stand, but also the very embodiment of what we have been going on about - the wood stove, pleasant view, and easy chair arrangement that we see as key to enjoying being on these islands.

Woodstove... i.e. all the requirements for the Gulf island life.

Another attraction of the teahouse - not just for me but Dodie too, lest you think I am a pervert - was the young lady running the place. With long, braided, blond - almost white - hair, she had a striking appearance. While sort of from the same mold as the "Saltspring chic" girl we noted earlier in the week, this lady's look was much more cared for. Still, I had a lot of trouble figuring out her legs - or that is - leg gear. There certainly were tights, and tall leather boots, I think, But also other sorts of wrappings and pins. I was too shy to ask her for an explanation, or photo. Later Dodie said - "well, why not ask, no need to be shy!". Don't know - the lady could have been tickled, but maybe offended!

We cruised on back to the ferry dock area at Otter Bay, and arrived quite early. So we were there to witness the arrival of the ferry from Swartz Bay (Victoria). It was amazing. In addition to one semi-trailer and a bunch of commercial vehicles, 86 cars poured off the thing and onto "our" island. So that may be the secret to how our day was so pleasant, and almost totally free of vehicle traffic - everyone was working or shopping in Victoria! We were very glad that we were sidestepping them, leaving just as they were arriving.

Cars pouring onto Pender Island. OK, we're leaving!

Our ferry, when it came, was the Salish Orca. This one is of course very recognizable to us now, ad we can see this large modern ship as the huge boon to the islands that it is. Most everyone on board was heading for Tsawwassen (Vancouver), but the Orca "graciously" stopped us off at Mayne Island. I think we were the only ones.

From the terminal, it was a long uphill, until we crested and went down the other side, into Miners Bay. We were pleased to see a TruValu grocery and even a bakery, near the water. At the water was the Springwater lodge and pub - our place.

The Springwater is a very laid back place - clean, but not fancy, and with the pleasant aroma of fish and chips. The accommodation comprises four cabins, and this was really great. The cabins each have two bedrooms and a flly equipped kitchen, plus dining area and lounging area. Anyone could live here permanently with no problem.

We looked at the four burner stove, microwave, toaster, coffee maker, etc. and immediately went to the TruValu for eggs and bread, cheese, and etc. We will be happy as can be here.

But cooking could come later. Instead we headed over to the pub. No, not for beer. This was fish and chips night - $3 off and also $1 donated to the food bank. We may be influenced by being in this wonderful adventure - but I think not. No, we are saying the fish and chips here are the best ever. You can see it in the photo - crispy coating made, we understand, with local beer.

Miners Bay faces Active Pass - the narrow bit of water between Mayne and Galiano islands. Anyone who takes the ferry from Victoria to Vancouver passes through here. Often on that big ferry you get a close look at the equivalent other ferry, going in the other direction. The ferries squeeze by each other in the pass.

From our vantage point, we have already seen the Salish Orca - which somehow we beat over here on our bicycles from Village Bay where it dropped us, and we spotted one of the big ones - sneaking by in the night.

A ferry in Active Pass. The unfortunate passengers will end in Victoria or Vancouver.

The particular map of Mayne that we have is very clearly drawn, and we clearly see the five or so main roads, that we intend on spinning round and round on tomorrow. If the roads are good and the traffic low, it will be a hoot. And having our cosy cabin to return to will be a big bonus. Dodie, who hates greasy food, is threatening to return to the pub for more fish and chips tomorrow. But, we'll see...

The Grampies rampaged all over North Pender!

Heart

Comment

Link

Today's ride: 33 km (20 miles)
Total: 186 km (116 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	14
Comment on this entry	Comment	0