September 14, 2019: Tábor to Jindřichův Hradec

September 14, 2019

Just out of Tábor were gentle rolling hills. And turn-turns. -- Near Tábor, Czechia.

Červená Lhota Castle -- Pluhův Žďár, Czechia

Black and white ice cream and black cone at Červená Lhota Castle -- Pluhův Žďár, Czechia

One of the many 'enchanted forests' today in the rolling hills between Tábor and Jindřichův Hradec, Czechia.

Statue of Jan Hus, ie Hussites. -- Jindřichův Hradec, Czechia

Kostel sv. Kateřiny a klášter františkánů -- Jindřichův Hradec, Czechia.

Wandering back streets in the old town. -- Jindřichův Hradec, Czechia.

At the beginning of the 13th century Gothic JH castle was built (it was gradually rebuilt into a Renaissance chateau in the 16th century). -- Jindřichův Hradec, Czechia

Just outside along the walls of the castle. -- Jindřichův Hradec, Czechia

The Greenway Route brought us into town along the Nežárka River. -- Jindřichův Hradec, Czechia

Hotel: Hotel Bílá Paní, € 80,85

THAT one housefly that kept buzzing around and landing on my back or legs when I was trying to sleep. Very trying, indeed.

This being the case, I was still excited trying to imagine the goodness of what lay ahead for breakfast in this pretty fine hotel. I was even more excited when I realized that it was served down in the Cave restaurant, where the beer kegs were once stored when this was a brewery many years ago. Now the arches have been brick-covered to spruce up the look, but what a great-looking place. Foolishly, no photos taken. You can always Google that if you really want to see what it looks like.

The group of Canadian cyclists we met yesterday were down there when we arrived shortly before it opened at 7:30 am. As well, there was a fellow from another group of cyclists, though I think he was American. Like the Canadian group, their plan was to cycle to Český Krumlov today, though for them, it was their final day of cycling.

The breakfast was fabulous - fruits, veggies, breads, yoghourts, meats, cheeses, fish, desserts, juices, and eggs. Not only a smorgasbord for the mouth it was a smorgasbord for the eyes. I would like to have kept eating but was full before long. I went down to the storage area for the bikes, we loaded them up then headed out of the city.

The plan was to avoid the Greenway for the first little bit to get south of the city faster and to cut seven km off of the day in case we were too tired. The negative was that now we were cycling along an unattractive and busy city street past shopping areas, industrial zones, and no greenery. The positive was that we soon parted ways with the busy road and were back onto meandering quiet roads. There were vehicles though and often they were really fast as they roared past us. For the most part, though, they moved over to give us room. One vehicle came really close to me but all was well.

I was afraid that we had two tough climbs and a longest day to date. We kept it slow, and crawled up the climbs. But then were would be a nice descent where we flew down the other side. From about the 22 km point to the 30 km point I was at a physical low and ready for a break. Our goal was to get to Červená Lhota Castle - it was right along the Greenway route and I had seen it in a couple of videos from online vloggers. It looked worth the stop.

As we turned off of the main road into the castle area, there were a number of little food booths and trinket booths, so I started to worry a wee bit. That was all dismissed when we got around the last corner with views of the bright red castle which sits surrounded by a lake and with an arched stone walkway to enter it. All around the lake are trees and hills so it is really spellbindingly beautiful. After a quick snack in one of the shops we continued on our way only to find that the Greenway continued around to another side of the castle which presented even more beautiful views. Finally we tore our eyes from the views and climbed the tunnel of green route up from the castle then along small roads as we approached JH.

Excited after the castle, it seemed like nothing that we had 'only' another seventeen km to reach JH. Yes, there was one more big climb, but it was through deep green forests of towering trees that looked magical and enchanted. I hardly noticed the climb. The last few km descended for the most part as we approached town, then we turned and twisted our way into the centre along pathways which went through parks, along the river, and finally skirted the town square until we were across the road from the JH Castle walls and right in front of our hotel.

I came in to register and we were told we would have to wait until 2 pm to enter the room, so we took a table on the hotel's patio where we had a drink, some 'midnight garlic' soup and spaghetti bolognese, all of which was tasty. These were to tide us over til suppertime. Our bikes were stored in what seemed like a secure section in the building's stone walls so fingers are crossed again.

The room is interesting. It has windows that look down onto the patio and across the road to the castle. The room itself is quite large and the furniture is French provincial. Some online says it needs updating, but I rather liked it. Overall, a great little hotel with great food in a fantastic location. Super for two nights' stay. Tomorrow is a day of rest after the first four days of riding. None tomorrow.

We got cleaned up then headed out and about the town to check it out. Lots of really pretty buildings in this old centre and the main square is really beautiful. We wandered into a nearby church which was open. Mass was about to start and the huge pipe organ was being played prior to Mass. We did not stay for the mass but suffice to say that the church was magnificent and hearing the pipe organ was even magnificenter!!

We wandered back to the main square where we stepped into Restaurace Naše hospoda - Zlatá husa for a drink. We initially sat outside, but each time the sun went behind a cloud it was quite cool, and we had left our coats at the room. Having wine and a local beer turned into having dinner - beef cheeks and beef in cranberry with dumplings. Not amazing, it was pretty good, and I would agree with the 4.1 rating on TA.

Earlier in our walk we had seen the ground markings for the 15E Meridian so we went back to get a real-life photos of me straddling the line. It was a slow meander back toward the hotel but we went across the road to the castle first to wander the grounds. It is a really imposing structure and might be on the agenda for tomorrow. The last few steps were along the castle walls beside the river, again really, really, beautiful, until we came across to the room to the end of what turned into: not overly demanding cycling, very beautiful scenery, decent food, beautiful terminus town ... all-around great day.

Today's ride: 47 km (29 miles)
Total: 199 km (124 miles)

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