September 10, 2019: Prague Wandering

September 10, 2019

Lovely but crowded city centre strolling

Hotel: U Zeleného jalovce, €90

WHAT a difference a night of sleep in a bed makes!

Due to the time change, I did wake up in the night and it took a bit to fall back asleep. Still a bit tired, we got up and headed out before 8 am to the Square where there were hardly any people. The city was quiet, the early morning sun was brilliant, and the temp was a comfortable 10 C. Perfect. Last time it was in the mid thirties.

We got a few pics of the Square, then decided to find somewhere to eat, deciding to search for the cafe we visited four years ago. I remembered it was on the same street as the Bodeguita del Medio, which is on a street that ends at the Square. Sadly, our cafe was no longer, but there was another nearby called the Milani. Delicious cappuccino, ok croissants and ok goat cheese panini. But we are in Prague and it is beautiful.

One end of the street was the Square and the other end goes to the river so that is where we headed. Tree-lined walkways, the Philharmonic's building, and not too many people out yet. As we made our way to the Charles Bridge, the number of people escalated exponentially. We meandered across the Bridge, taking all kinds of photos, and the number of people grew. On the other side of the bridge we went into a few gift shops, then went up to and around St. Nicholas Church where tomorrow night is an organ concert. We will be gone to Kamenice by then.

We decided to come back across the Charles Bridge - holy smokes - more people than I have seen in a long while. Jammed, crammed... no wonder the locals are not fond of the Bridge, saying there is more to their country than this craziness.

And this is why I am here and doing this tour. Czech Republic is more than Prague, the way that Prague is more than the Charles Bridge. The Greenway is an initiative by the Czech government to introduce people to more of their country, providing information, and guidelines to follow hiking, walking and cycling paths through culturally significant sites. I loved Prague but am looking forward to seeing more of the countryside, and other small towns and villages or lesser-known cities, I am sure amazing in their own unique way.

We had a short stop at the room to refill our water and clean up, then went toward Wenceslaus Square, which was only about 10-15 minutes from our room. We headed up one side, stopping at a cheese store for some old goat cheese (trying for something similar to Manchego), then down the other side, stopping for some photos of the statue of Wenceslaus on his horse.

Right on our route back to the room was a Tesco, so we stopped for breakfast food before we head out cycling in the morning - pastries, mandarins, juice, cheese, and yogourt. For the actual cycling, I will mix up some electrolyte drink and carry it with me. I may have a wee snack on the road, but prefer to drink than eat anything too solid.

We have just had a little snack and will head out for our last few hours of Prague. We want to have dinner somewhere nearby, then see the Bridge and Square by night. I remember it being great so would like one last view of it.

First up was a beer and wine and we stumbled upon a bar with a name with a hidden meaning to some. U Vejvoda. The place had a strange feel to it in that I did not trust the servers, the prices or the bar tender. I checked the prices a few times and ordered - MA had some wine which was somewhat alright and I had a Kozel dark, which was proper for style but I do prefer a more hoppy aroma and these central European beers have none. But it was alright.

In case you're wondering, the tab came out right, though when I looked online later, I saw comments on Tripadvisor that people had been overcharged, charged for things they did not order and on and on it went. That must have been what I could feel. Just outside the bar we ran into a couple of women from Belfast, Ireland, who were looking for snacks at the Tesco. As it turned out, we were standing beside a mini market whch had all they needed. They were a delight to chat with.

While wandering toward the square, we stumbled upon some kind of gathering where a group of musicians were seated at a big table, with their glasses of beer in front of them and each holding an instrument. Violin, guitars, base, and clarinet. They just went from song to song and as they started to play, all of the group joined in to sing, which made me think that they might have been playing a number of traditional Czech tunes. I could have stayed all night listening, but we decided to head over for dinner so we could get to the clock for its chiming.

One street over from our room was an Asian restaurant that was highly rated on TA so we went in for Pad Thai - I had chicken and MA had duck. Her goal is to try as many creature meats as possible on this trip. I have to admit that her PFD... Prague Fried Duck... was really tasty. The meals were good but I cannot honestly say that they were great. The TA rating was too high, methinks.

Done, we zipped over to the Square to see the clock strike 20h, and yes, it did ring twenty times. The crowd that gathered was monstrous, and no wonder, the clock really is something to see. As quickly as they had gathered, they soon drifted away into the square or down other streets. Our next destination was to the Bridge through the throngs of people. Getting there was difficult as people packed Karlovo street. On the other hand, the Charles Bridge was not too bad and we were able to wander it a bit, and look up and down river to the lighted portions of the city. Yes, overly touristic, but just so beautiful, I think I would be happy to return again. Yes, again. I am ok to return to places I like, despite the consternation of some.

I was getting tired, so we headed back to the room to pre-pack the gear and prepare for tomorrow's first day of riding. It did not take that long, but I am just out of the daily routine of packing and unpacking on the road, though I was touring a short five months ago in Portugal. It will come quickly, but for now, I am getting things sorted to be organized on the bike.

In bed, I fell asleep early, but woke again when I started to feel a little something in my stomach. The kind of something that has led to serious issues on previous trips. Fortunately, it gradually diminished and I fell asleep. Here's thanks to that!

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