The itinerary
Firming up the plans has lead to much excitement this weekend, and lots of prospective staring at maps. I knew broadly that
- I wanted to head west and see the coast as far as Galicia
- I was keen to check out the high mountains of the Pico de Europa. Many routes understandably avoid these, but I couldn't turn down the opportunity to ride in proper mountains again. After all, how could they compare to Cornish grades?
- I wasn't too bothered about cities or even, shockingly, Santiago. It'll be crammed with pilgrims I gather it's a bit of conveyor-belt in high summer.
- I'm happy to camp wherever, wild camping if necessary/where possible in remote areas.
My current plan looks a bit like this:
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My thinking is I want to experience the Picos de Europa mountains as closely as I can before diving back to the Asturian coast and some (hopefully) more laid-back days. Then a hotel respite in Oviedo, before continuing along the craggy Costa Verde. I'd cut across to A Coruña then continue to follow the coast around the remote and wild Costa del Morte (yes, Coast of Death) to Finisterre. From here I'd continue south towards Pontevedra and Vigo. I'll likely make a sally into Portugal before returning to Vigo to hire a car, and drive myself and the 'Shift back to Santander and the ferry home.
The mountains of Cantabria and Asturias form an almost impenetrable wall right up next to the coast. Rather than be pinned behind these, I want to really ride through the massif of the Picos de Europa from the east or south, but it was very unclear whether this would be possible. Amazingly, the Spanish state mapping authority CNIG make all their scanned maps freely available on their website here. Downloading some 1:50K maps of the mountains made it clear that a cool 4WD-passable track exists cutting N-S through the mountains joining Cantabria to Asturias between the villages of Espinama and Sotres. This excellent website of mountain biking enthusiasts makes it clear this is passable, and possible. It's pretty remote so there may be some wild camping involved.
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So instead of doing the conventional thing and riding the coast from Santander, I'll likely head inland to the natural target of the big Ebro reservoir. From there I'll work my way west into the Picos, crossing over the pass and into Asturias. These ancient provinces largely follow the natural barriers, so once in Asturias it should be straightforward to get to the coast.
So - gentle agricultural valleys up from Santander, a big lake, serious mountains, a wild traverse over the Picos de Europa, descent to coastal resorts and beaches, some culture and city life in Oviedo, then wilder coast and the "end of the world" at Finisterre. Should be pretty varied!
I'm covering much less distance in a straight line than I might otherwise - this is not an efficient route - but am looking at 100km/2000m climb days. My main concern is I don't knacker myself early. So plans beyond Finisterre and into Portugal are pretty sketchy at the moment. I'll almost certainly hire my car for the return trip in Vigo, so that puts a nice pin in the end of the trip.
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