July 26, 2023
Day 7 - Cadavedo to El Franco [Photos now!]
Half rest day
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Just a short update this, partly because I don't have much power left in the old machine but mostly because, after being turned away from a full campsite yesterday and seeing a lovely one waiting for me (and near the beach) I rather spontaneously decided to make it a half a rest day and knock off early.
I've spent the rest of the day down the beach, walking the coast path and swimming in the sea. Since I've had minimal contact with the coast (often you can't see it from the National road, and even Cadavedo had an oddly inland feel) it was great to get close to the water. It really made clear the contrast the mountains, and particularly Leon which feels like a world unto itself.
I actually slept ok in the top bunk of the pilgrim albergue dorm. The only downside was the inevitable snorer, although I found a novel remedy for this when my computer - which I'd snuggled up next to my feet, for security I guess - fell like an aluminium guillotine when I inevitably shifted in my sleep. I was less worried about the machine than in doing serious damage to the chap underneath me. Fortunately not only was he unhurt (and stopped snoring), he let me know in good spirits that my computer had fallen down and was waiting on my bunk.
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Having breakfast I got chatting to Salvatore, who was also a cycle (pilgrim). He had previously cycled the Camino Frances, and now was doing the Norte all the way from Irun at the French border. He apparently hadn't trained at all and hadn't ridden the bike for a year before starting off. Still, he seemed pretty spry now - and after comparing notes on the National road we decided to ride together. He was on more of a mountain bike so readily went for the off-road sections, but I kept my pace bumping along (and cruised on the roads, obviously). We passed lots more pilgrims than I'd seen before, and he had a comically long Spanish conversation with some traffic cops which boiled down to: turn left.
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At Luarca, a picturesque fishing port, he needed to stop for a second breakfast so we parted ways. I continued (rather more slowly) on my own, and after some tangles with the now much less pleasant National road peeled off and followed the Camino myself.
I took this to the next extreme and decided that I wasn't in a massive hurry, and it made sense to leave the N road and run through the coastal towns. I was glad I did: Peurto de Vega was really pretty, and sat in the park next to the harbour and ate lunch.
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My aim was to get to maybe Ribadeo or the campsite at O Chao. I was sort of haunted by the campsite being full last night though - not that I'd have any trouble getting alternative accomodation, it's just another thing to deal with after a long ride. I had no rest days planned, and the fatigue was beginning to show.
So when I passed a sign indicating a campsite way before Ribadeo, at A Carida, I sort of joked to myself I could stop even though it was 2pm. Then I sat in a bus shelter and did some calculations - no, I actually could, it would still only be a 100km run to Vilalba the following day (which I absolutely expressly must get to, for the simple reason I have a very cheap room booked in advance there at the Parador).
Fate was naturally quick to pay me back - I'd just decided to stop, when I wheeled round to the campsite to find it closed up and inhabited, apparently, by donkeys. A helpful chap also let me know it was closed, which was a bit redundant in practice but I appreciated the input.
Tutting at my laziness, I continued on the National road. And then, what should appear but 10km later? Another campsite, a kilometer from the beach, not on my map, that's incredibly peaceful and layed-back. Ok, this was fated now. I happily pulled in and immediately was told it was no problem, I could pitch where I like. I misheard the price and had an embarrassing moment handing the lady 30 euros - actual price, 10.25.
So it's half a rest day. I walked the coast path around amazingly craggy cliffs topped with, of all things, fields of maize - the analogue of equivalent on the Cornish coast. Then swam a few times at a popular beach. It was a good idea as my ankle is still ridiculously swollen and now I'm in striking distance of Santiago there's no need to rush.
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Currently as I'm typing this I've been served another enormous Asturian cider - this time with an electric cider pump in the shape of an apple - at the camp bar and will see if they'll do me a pizza in a minute (if not, it's time for me to cook the rest of my pasta).
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90km/1,500 climbing to Vilalba tomorrow. No regrets!
Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 577 km (358 miles)
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