Tzermiado

May 9, 2018

Today’s destination Tzermiado, on the Lassithi Plateau. It’s another spot we’ve been before, visiting it on an overnight from Iraklion on our first tour of Crete.

We began the day by walking down to the village, where we experienced our most frustrating meal of the tour so far. Breakfast was available at our inn, but not until about 8:30. We went down to the village to,get an earlier start, and did manage to place our order at 8. The first courses (bread and coffee) did not arrive for almost a half hour though, and the remainder of the meal straggled in one item at a time. We finally escaped at about 9:30. Knowing what we know now, we would have been better off eating at the hotel.

Walking back up this steep street for the third and final time: once yesterday pushing our bikes; last night in the dark after dinner; and this morning after breakfast. That’s enough.

I’d meant to ask our host what this structure lining the front of the hotel was. Something involving liquids obviously. Anybody know?

We didn’t make it out of the hotel until about 10. We have a short but difficult ride today, and we’re hoping to leave earlier than this. Once out of the room though, we begin the ride with a short walk, continuing up the steep hill for a few blocks until we reach the top of the ridge and see the mountains to the east.

Leaving Archanes from the upper end, still pushing our bikes. Our hotel is right beside the motorcycle.

A good look at Mount Juktas. It’s much broader than it looked when we approached it from the northwest yesterday.

Atop the ridge just above Archanes. I was pleased this shepherd was willing to let me take his photo.

Today’s ride is a cut across the Cretan interior. It is quite different in character from what we’ve seen so far in Crete - a bit drier, more arable, a bit more populous, since we are fairly close to Iraklion - but still characterized by the Same rugged beauty and by great cycling roads. As usual, the land is very contoured, and it seems like we are constantly either climbing or falling. There really isn’t much easy riding to be had in Crete.

After about twenty miles we come to Kastelli, the only town of any size on today’s route. We stop there for lunch, and for a breather before the main work of the day - an 1100’ climb over the next ridge to the east, followed by a long descent leading to the main event, a 2200’ climb to the Lissithi Plateau.

Beginning the descent down the eastern slope of the ridge.

For the next few miles we cross a thumb of Irakleon’s wine belt.

And up the next ridge. Today is a lot like yesterday’s ride: one damn ridge after another.

I stopped to take a photo of the blossom, which looks like. Cousin of Queen Anne’s Lace; but the bugs were more interesting. Bill Shaneyfelt confirms this is Queen Anne’s lace, and identifies the striped insects as minstrel bugs and the other as a long horned beetle.

A long eucalyptus colonnade lined the road approaching Apostoli.

The road begins climbing immediately outside of Kastelli, gaining 1100’ as it winds its way up the east side of the valley. Finally it tops out, giving us views further west to a range of real mountains - the high country around the Lassithi Plateau is quite rugged and dramatic, and the views of the climb ahead are quite daunting.

Looking back at Kastelli from atop the next ridge

Looking down on Aski and at the awesome crags surrounding the Lassithi Plateau

In Aski, one of the prettier small villages we passed through today

In Aski. Once again, we can thank Rocky for discovering her phone comes with a camera.

Looking across the deep canyon ahead of us, we see the route to the Lassithi Plateau. How tough can that be, really?

From Aski we drop several miles to the basin of the valley, and then climb steadily for the next eight miles. The climb to the Lassithi Plateau is long, but manageable. Conditions are great - it’s starting to get a bit overcast , so it’s not too warm; and we have a bit of a tailwind, although given how switchbacked the climb is, wind direction doesn’t have much of an effect.

Finally, we top out. Rachael is already there waiting for me - we biked together to about the 2000’ level, but then we separated as I found a few spots where stopping for a photo break felt compulsory. At the top, a woman walks up with a genuinely perplexed look on her face and asks why in the world we choose to do this to ourselves.

That way. To be more accurate, the sign should have about a five degree list to it.

this incredible plant is Passiflora Caerula, or blue passion flower (credit: Andrea Brown)

Another view of the same blossom, showing it’s incredible layering.

On the climb to Lassithi Plateau. On climbs like this, I find Rachael alternately inspiring and discouraging. Just won’t quit.

I like the perspective this shot gives on the climb. The truthful explanation for showing it here though is that I was looking for an excuse to stop for a minute.

The lighting conditions aren’t the best for looking back down the valley we climbed out from, but you get the idea.

At the top, the road takes a sharp bend and cuts through a narrow gap in the ridge. Lining it is the remains of a battery of old stone windmills.

A last look back to the north before dropping into Lassithi Plateau

The Lassithi Plateau really is a special place. With a bit of imagination, it feels like you’re dropping into Shangrila. We can see that there have been some changes here in the six years since we came the first time - there is significantly more tourist activity - but it still has the same character I remember.

We have few tense moments when we arrive at our hotel. First of all, arrival is no mean feat. Even if you find the best way in, it’s difficult; but we took the most direct way, which is definitely not the best - it climbs steeply away from the valley floor up an almost-road that isn’t remotely bikable. This is the second straight night we’ve arrived at our room after pushing our bikes up a ghastly steep slope.

When we arrive, there’s no one around and no indication that we can see of how to contact anyone. We’re starting to get anxious about our plans for the night when Rachael spots contact information in an unlikely spot. We give a call, and about five minutes later a familiar face walks down the stairs to greet us. It’s the same man that greeted us last time we were here. I had forgotten him completely, but recognized him instantly. It’s really amazing how much retrievable information you have stuffed in your attic, waiting for the right trigger to activate it.

The hotel has changed a lot in the last six years. I remind the manager that we were here in 2012,and he points out that it was open less than a year then. At the time, we were the only guests; the restaurant wasn’t open yet, and we had a scary time coming back up from the village in the dark over dinner. Tonight, there are ten guests in the hotel, the restaurant is open, and the manager’s English language skills are significantly improved.

Over dinner Rachael and I reminisce about our first visit and recover some lost memories, aided by a revisitation to our previous journal. This is one of the things about travel that I really love - it is so resonant. Along with gaining new experiences, it keeps past experiences alive.

Dropping into Lassithi Plateau. Like Omalos, it’s a small basin high in the mountains.

There are only a few of these mills with sails, for show. They weren’t here last time, but I’m glad of it. It helps you imagine what this plateau look like when there were hundreds of these blanketing it.

Another willing subject, on the outskirts of Tzermiado

Two nights in a row! This approach is worse than last night’s was.

The view south across Tzermiado from our hotel dining room

I love this photo in the dining room, which the owner said was taken only forty years ago. I wish I could have seen it then.

Bike stats: today, 38 miles, 4,800’; for the tour, 422 miles, 36,200 ’

Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 468 miles (753 km)

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Suzanne GibsonVideos and photos are fantastic. I'm a wee bit envious. But also inspired by your photography. Not to do that kind of cycing though - even in my best years I couldn't have attempted what you two are capable of.
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6 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonThanks, Suzanne. All credit goes to the subject - amazing things to point the camera in all directions. I really feel fortunate to still be able to do this, and more so with each passing year. One of these years my old, arthritic knees will force me to the flatlands, but I’m sure that will be great too.
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6 years ago