First, an update on the day’s news. It looks like the sale of our condo is going to go through. We signed the final closing document this evening, after dinner. Hooray!
Pretty brief narrative today, because I’m getting behind already - I finally slept well and got caught up last night, the first time since we arrived. But now I’m out of time this morning, and it’s too hot already to sit long around the hotel room.
Today’s ride was fantastic. Look at the shape of the route on the map - it’s a constant squiggle. Now imagine it squiggling just as much in the third dimension. Up, down. Up, down. Incredibly scenic. Amazing to spend all day rounding a bend on an empty, narrow road and coming to yet another arresting vista.
The colors and texture are wonderful, and hopefully the photos give some sense of that. To give the complete picture though, there should be audio - imagine standing at one of these viewpoints, and it’s completely still - except for the wind rustling through the olive teees, the bleating of goats, and the sound of them scrambling on the rocks nearby. And, I’m sure, the smells must be fantastic as well, with so much in bloom here.
We arrive back at the hotel a bit before six. Our 45 mile loop has taken all day - between the hills and the constant need to stop and absorb the views, we averaged about 9 mph for the day. We’re greeted warmly when we return by Frederika, our new candidate for best hostess ever. If I were younger and single, I’d have a crush on her; as it is, we wish we could adopt her. When we get to our room we find our sun-dried laundry neatly folded or on hangers.
We ended the day on the waterfront, at a different fish tavern than the night before. We’re at the far end of the strip, away from the crowds, and have the restaurant largely to ourselves, with a few other diners, a few cats, a small dog. We enjoy a simple, inexpensive, delicious meal: fried vegetables, sea bream, lamb and potatoes, wine.accompanied by a few cats, a small dog, overlooking the bay. Very nice.
It is amazing how quickly you leave the crowds behind when you leave the Cretan coast. Here, we are only a half mile from the hotel and we’re in a world apart. Too bad it’s the wrong world - we missed our turn a few hundred yards back.
A closer look at the oleander we’ve seen lining the roads here. Plus some important information for those that don’t know already: oleander, a member of the dogbane family, is one of the most poisonous of the commonly grown garden plants.
We stopped to cool off over cold drinks here in Sfinari. There are actually two neighboring cafes here, both with similar older couples beckoning us in. A bit confusing, hard to choose.
Rachael thinks I’m overdoing it with the beehive photos. I don’t agree. If she feels too strongly about it, she could start taking her own photos and blog herself.
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanThanks for the encouragement, Bruce. More to come, I’m sure. I doubt we’ve seen the last of the beehives down here. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Scott AndersonYes, she’s always been the visionary member of the team, thinking ahead. I’m more prone to just go now and ask questions later. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
We take a second cooling off break at a mini-mart/bar in Elos (Rachael:an ice cream bar; Scott:a liter of milk). This is a good spot to point out that the new underbags we got before this tour. They work great for day rides.
Steve Miller/GrampiesThey also work really well for keeping things like spare tools that you don't regularly need. Or extra first aid stuff. Or your spare glasses that you do NOT want to lose. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesYup, the tool kit and spare tube are in there. Thanks for the pro tip on the specs though! Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Andrea BrownWhat a great plant! It looks related to lupine but is not, it's Ebenus cretica – Cretan ebony. Also not related to the ebony tree. Fantastic. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Andrea BrownThanks! This is working out great! We’ll get another look at these today when we bike back through the gorge in the reverse direction. Earlier in the day, they should still be in the sun. Reply to this comment 6 years ago
Andrea BrownThis is a Callistemon, or bottlebrush. We were just looking at these out at Cistus Nursery on Sauvie Island. They are native to Australia but thrive very well elsewhere.
Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km) Total: 196 miles (315 km)
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Tony CullimoreWhat an amazing ride. I see why you headed for this area. Rock catchers overhead just in case. But cars using your side of the road? Not sure about that! Reply to this comment 6 years ago
