Palaiochora

May 2, 2018

Before starting in on today, here are a couple added photos from yesterday that Rachael was hiding on her phone:

And, there’s this photo that we just gleaned from Michael and Ciska’s latest post:

Pretty photogenic bunch; but then, everyone looks better in Crete.

The day began with breakfast on the waterfront, a short three block walk from our hotel. After placing our order, Rachael walked down to where we ate dinner last night, hoping that someone was there and that they had her jacket. That Rachael - always losing things! Today, she’s in luck.

Rachael returns from the Fish Tavern, happy to be reunited with her jacket.

So what we have here is another day with a pretty simple narrative. Which is good - I can save up my journaling firepower for days with something other than the usual brilliant scenery and challenging to bake today, but topography.

The first third of the ride was an exact reverse of the end of yesterday’s - beginning with a steep climb away from Kissamos Bay, we continued climbing until we reached Topolia where we broke for ice cream and beverages. A couple of points of note: my gears are still not fully functional (nor are Rachael’s, btw), and I do not have the use of the lowest two gears. This makes climbing pretty iffy, and I’m constantly wondering if I’m going to hit my limit and need to get off and push (but I don’t, get). And, the weather is cooler than expected, which is a real blessing. Over breakfast I felt sure we were going to bake today, but a bit of cloud cover has been building as we move south and away from the coast.

Approaching the lower entrance to Topolia Gorge

Cretan ebony (ebenus cretica), the plant we saw a close-up of yesterday. This is an endemic plant in Crete (a new term for me).

Rock lettuce (Petromarula pinnata), another endemic species in Crete.

At our hydration and ice cream break, Topolia

Leaving Topolia, we climb through the gorge - and then just keep climbing before finally peaking at over 2’700’. When we reach the summit, we enjoy our lunch looking over the realm, feeling like royalty. A couple of things of note: first, it is really beautiful biking through the gorge this morning - the lighting is much better earlier in the day. Second, it turns out I’m only missing my next to lowest gear. If I just continue past it I can engage again. Which is wonderful news - I was about to the point of dismounting when I discovered this.

To Palaiochora

Lunch break on top of the world. At 2,700’, this May be the high point on our tour if Crete..

At the summit: a Cretan rockrose (cistus creticus), another endemic species.

From the summit, it’s a 2,700’ net drop to the Libyan Sea, plus an additional 700’ to cover some gains here and there on the way down. It’s exciting to catch sight of the sea, for no obvious reason. Who knows why it feels romantic to arrive at a differently named expanse of what is after all just another part of the Mediterranean? A couple things of note: First, it continues overcast and almost cool, until we near the coast; at which point it clears and heats up. Second, we changed our plans on the way down, shortening our itinerary by abou eight miles and Avoiding an additional 1,400’ steep climb by taking a more direct road to Palaiochora. We both agreed we had it in us to take the harder route, but didn’t see the point. It was nice to get into town a bit earlier for a change.

Rachael’s video of the descent - watch for the wildlife:

Beginning the long descent to the Libyan Sea

Our first sight of the Libyan Sea and Palaiochora

Above Palaiohora, Rachael shows of her new, larger panniers -the same size as mine. She likes them because they go with her bike. I like them because she can carry more of the load now. About time she started paying the youth tax!

Palaiochora is a great little place. I think it must get quite busy in the height of the season, based on the wealth of dining and lodging facilities. Today though it is quite quiet and relaxed. At our waterfront restaurant there is one other dining party, plus four cats.

On the waterfront, Palaiohora. I like it when I can get more than one of y favorite subjects in the same frame like this. Very efficient.

The evening ferry returns from Agia Roumeli, our destination for tomorrow.

We’re having fish tonight, obviously. We’ve had cats at our table every night so far, but tonight we had four.

Ride stats: today, 32 miles, 4,000’; for the tour, 186 miles, 17,200’

Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km)
Total: 228 miles (367 km)

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