Like yesterday, we got an early start to try to beat the threatened afternoon thunderstorms. We were down for breakfast at 7 for a tasty omelet and delicious bread, and were on the road not long after 8. We left with really good feelings about Guesthouse Germenj, and especially the family that runs it. Simple as it’s accommodations are, we would definitely stay here again if we came this way.
Today’s ride had the same magical quality as yesterday’s, and of the one before - fantastic scenery, remarkable sights, near-empty roads. Every day in Albania has been memorable, but these latest days, ever since we entered the Vjosa valley, have been extraordinary and unlike any other cycling experience we’ve had.
The country is modernizing it’s infrastructure at breakneck speed, it seems. There are signs of this everywhere, but especially with the roads. We’ve passed many miles of what appear to be brand new highways - wide, smooth, incomplete works in progress. On the ride north from Gjirokaster a few days back, we were a bit alarmed by some gaping, very deep holes along the side of the new highways - real trip enders, if you weren’t paying attention. This went on for miles, and we realized that they’re the uncovered holes into which highway light standards will be placed soon.
The road from the last three days - ever since we entered the Vjosa - is not like this. Narrow, unstraightened, of erratic and often quite poor surface quality, among other things it keeps the traffic level and velocity down. It’s not always the most comfortable, but it’s perfect for slow travel - on a bike, on foot, on a donkey. It’s just a matter of time until the country gets to these roads too though, and I wonder how much longer after that this country will retain its magical quality. If you’re tempted to visit Albania (and you should be), I’d go now.
Rachael complained that she’s tired of rough roads, so we should see what she’s grousing about. This is pretty representative of the first thirty miles of the day (and all of yesterday), until we finally come to the new highway.
About ten miles before Korça, we near the top of the final climb of the day. Unexpectedly, the climb ends about a hundred feet lower than the mapped route, when we pass through a gap in the road and come to fresh pavement. The road I had mapped circles above to the left, but is now cut off and abandoned. The newly paved road is so fresh that it isn’t recognized on Google yet. For the remainder of the ride we’re on a sleek, wide, new highway. It is still very quiet, but the character is very different. Before long we start working our way into Korça, one of the largest cities in the country.
And, amazingly enough, we arrive dry again! It has turned out to be a perfect cycling day - low to mid seventies, partly cloudy; very comfortable. The rains hold off until dinner time, when a sudden flash of lightning followed by a deafening crash about a second later sends everyone in the streets running for cover. Not us though - we’re under cover already on the balcony of our restaurant, enjoying a fine Father’s Day meal and enjoying the show.
In the evening we phone home to wish dad a happy Father’s Day. He’s delighted to take the call - he said he never expected to receive a phone call from Albania. In his mind, it’s as remote as Timbuktoo. I tell him of how amazing it is here, and that we saw a horse-drawn plow today. He said his youth was like that, growing up in the Blue Ridge Mountains - the land was plowed with horses then also, and he would ride the rake when he could get away with it.
A double break: we’re at the top of the final climb for the day, and the start of the new highway.
Ride stats today: 42 miles, 3,300’; for the tour: 1,744 miles, 151,300’
Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km) Total: 1,658 miles (2,668 km)
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Jacquie GaudetFollowing this journal is making me think about changing my upcoming retirement tour. I was going to go to France, then through Switzerland to Italy, but now I'm thinking of doing something like this--copying you again! So, one for 2019 and one for 2020...
Scott AndersonTo Jacquie GaudetI would sure consider coming to somewhere in the region, if you’ve never been here. I’m already imagining another tour a few years down the road.
