Kastraki (Meteora)

May 26, 2018

Meteora today!

A decade-old urge to visit Meteora was the key factor in planning this tour. We’ve talked through endless variations on itineraries that would bring us there, including the possibility of joining a tour group from someplace further south. Now that we’re here, it’s hard to understand why we were so uncertain about biking this way - fear of dogs, not much information available, uncertainty about roads and drivers were all factors in our hesitation. Actually though, we’re finding the north to be splendid cycling country.

Today’s route was similar to the past few days, hugging close to the mountains that form the southern border of the Plain of Thessaly. Our route was very quiet most of the way, and the busier stretches had an abundant shoulder. For most of the day we biked on the periphery of the agricultural zone: to our right was the broad plain, with the Pindar Mountains at its far end scarcely visible; and to our left was a narrow band of fields and pastures backed by increasingly dramatic mountains.

We rode with a leisurely, relaxed pace but kept at it pretty steadily, stopping only for photos and for a lunch break at tiny Mauria, where we bought lunch supplies at the mini market and took them to the attached bar/cafe where we complemented them with orange juice. By about two we got our first view of Kalambaka and the astonishing rock formation behind it, still ten miles distant. Rachael’s eyes immediately started misting up.

Some while later we pulled in to our lodging in Kastraki, the smaller, more traditional neighbor of The larger, more tourist-centered Kalambaka. We’re staying in Guesthouse Papastathis, a welcoming place that sits a ways above the village and is the last one before Meteora. The setting is astonishing, with fantastic rock columns towering vertically above.

We’re staying here in Kastraki for one night only, because we couldn’t book a second. Tomorrow we’ll move to a different inn, in neighboring Kalambaka. It’s a bit inconvenient to move, but it will allow us to stay next to a different section of Meteora each night.

As you see, the mountains rise up on the south side almost adjacent to the road. Like yesterday, much of the cultivated land is unfenced, giving the feeling of biking through a park.

To the north is the broad Plain of Thessaly. The Pindar Mountains are scarcely visible in the distance. The plain steadily narrows as we move west, tapering to a point just about at Meteora.

Tortoise! Nice to see one alive for a change - the poor guys don’t have much defense against vehicles.

We encouraged him to move along out of harms way, and he did in good time, making it safely back to the meadow.

Medieval fortress, somewhere around Fanari

Our route stays close to the mountains, following a large horseshoe bend that follows the profile of the range.

The formations become more rugged and dramatic as we move west.

A new worry. What are the odds that this will hold up for the next 3+ weeks? Guess I should have replaced it before we left home.

Our first sighting of Kalambaka, still ten miles off

The last few miles were through lush river bottomland- the basin has tapered enough that we are biking close by the Pineios River.

Kalambaka again, now just five miles distant.

At the end of the ride we cross the wide Pineios River and enter Kastraki

So what’s this amazing plant, with its orchid-like blossoms? It’s a small tree, about the size of a fruit tree.

Upon checking in, our innkeeper informed us that they have laundry service for 8 euros. We’re overdue, and jumped on the offer. Then, after resting up a bit we went out for a short walk on the road and a nearby path, risking stiff necks and a walking accident by craning our heads up at the sky in wonder and amazement for the next hour. Then, we walked down to the village for a fine meal, and walked back to the room to retire early. We have to get an early start tomorrow, for a tour that we’ll discuss then.

I had quite a hard time deciding what photos to include in today’s post. I arbitrarily decided to limit myself to ten favorites, but it could easily have been twice as many.

I don’t know which monastery this is. Maybe I will after tomorrow’s tour.

Saint George Madilas (Saint George of the Scarves), a cliffside cave near Kastraki. The story behind the scarves is interesting: https://www.visitmeteora.travel/st-george-madilas/

Saint George Madilis. I can’t imagine how people reach the cave to place or remove the scarves.

An interesting street scene in quiet Kastraki. The dogs still won’t move, after several honks of the horn

I don’t know what this one is either. Check Back tomorrow.

It’s amazing that the rocks rise straight up out of these back yards. Imagine living in such a place!

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Ride stats today: 49 miles, 1,500’

Today's ride: 49 miles (79 km)
Total: 1,001 miles (1,611 km)

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