Chalkida

May 21, 2018

We got a bit of a late start this morning because our host didn’t begin serving breakfast until 8:30. I know, we always seem to get a late start for one reason or another, and rolling out at 10 was actually a bit faster than usual. We had an enjoyable conversation with our host, Triantafilia, who took a great interest in our mode of travel and our exact itinerary. And where will you stay tonight? And tomorrow? And tomorrow? And tomorrow? And will you move to a new town every night? We went through the itinerary all the way to Corfu with her.

The view of AgIi Apostoli from our balcony this morning. Much more promising than it looked last night in the rain.

The ride began as we knew it would -with a walk downhill from Triantafilia’s home until we got to a slope we felt comfortable riding on, followed by a steep three mile climb that reversed the tail end of our ride last night. Today’s ride is really front-loaded. We climbed a thousand feet in the first three miles, which represented fully half of the day’s total climb.

The next hour, as we generally dropped northwest to the coast, were the best part of the day: empty roads, more striking scenery, relaxing terrain. I need a day like this that isn’t too taxing - I’m starting to feel a bit leg-weary and also a bit undernourished. When we reach the coast we cruise through the first small fishing village we come to, checking out the options. There are the usual assortment of bars, and one diner that could be suitable if we knew what the options were - the menu is only posted in Greek. The proprietress comes out and in reasonably good English goes through the options. They’re a bit limited today since it’s Monday, and normally their quietest day. What’s available sounds sufficient though, so we sit down. She comes by a minute later and sits down with us, chats a bit, and then takes our order. She’s interested in our bikes, and says a bit wistfully that she never had time to bike as a child because she had to help her father in the bakery; and now she’s too old to take it up.

We split a large Greek salad and I have a large plate of pork steak and fries, sharing a bit with Rachael. Plus a beer. plus water. 19 Euros. We enjoy our meal, sitting by the bay in the shade, looking across at the mainland, and surreptitiously slipping bits of gristle to one of the four insistent cats (there are always cats) at our feet.

At the end of the meal I go indoors to use the facilities, and have a more prolonged chat with our hostess. It’s delightful. She opens up a bit more about her past. She moved to Cleveland, Ohio with her husband, lived there for a decade, and then came back when she couldn’t take it any longer. She loves it here, the village where she was born. She starts her day by walking down to her cafe and sits looking at the Gulf and hills over her morning coffee.

We’re over the ridge above Agii Apostoli, and coasting toward the interior.

Here’s our route for the next hour: after dropping to the flats we’ll follow that road in the center as far as the west coast.

I don’t remember ever seeing a place where hollyhocks grew in such profusion.

This pool table flat basin surrounded by mountains looks almost eerie. In the right light it looks like the sea. It must have been under water at some point in the not distant past.

Rachael was calling me to get closer and get a picture of goats butting heads, but I wanted to stop and get one of her first.

In Anthoupoli, our lunch stop for the day

If you look at the elevation profile below, you’ll see something odd about today’s ride: the last thirty miles are basically flat, a rarity in Greece. We make fairly good time covering these miles to Chalkia, stopping once at convenience store for drinks. We don’t enjoy the ride much though. We’re on the coast highway, a two lane road that carries a fair amount of traffic including its share of trucks. There’s no shoulder, but the lanes are wide enough and we never really feel insecure, but it isn’t enjoyable either. The first unpleasant road since our ride into Heraklion a week ago. Can’t complain about that.

After lunch, the remainder of the ride was flat, wind assisted and fast. Some parts of it were scenic, as we biked along the gulf of Euboea.

Looking across the Gulf of Euboea to the mainland

We’re staying tonight on the mainland side of Chalkida (Chalcis), the site of an important historical city with the usual tortured past. Poor Chalcis seems to have been conquered, pillaged and razed by every significant power in the region for the last three thousand years. It sits at a strategically place important spot, at the very narrow Strait of Euripus. The bridge we cross the strait on, the Old Bridge or Swing Bridge, is actually newish; it’s just older than the really new bridge that just opened a few years back, a large suspension bridge that now carries all the traffic between Evia and the mainland.

The Old Bridge isn’t so old, but it’s heritage is. It is the sixth generation of a bridge that was first built in 411 BC. That’s old.

Crossing the very narrow Strait of Euripus over the Old Eviprou Bridge, in Chalkida, we briefly leave Evia for a night on the mainland.

The tides in the Strait of Euripus are famous, and a rare phenomenon. They reverse direction twice each day, flowing strongly in one direction before briefly going slack and then reversing direction.

Chalkida is a real city, population 100,000+. It’s the largest place we’ll stay on this tour, I believe. We’re staying right by the strait, near the Old Bridge, in a district that feels very cosmopolitan. We celebrate, and I continue my effort to keep my weight up, by having a terrific Italian meal at Lupo, overlooking the strait and watching the sun sink behind the hills on the mainland.

Stepping out for a fine Italian meal at Lupo.

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Ride stats today: 46 miles, 2,400’

Today's ride: 46 miles (74 km)
Total: 770 miles (1,239 km)

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