The ride from Sparta east to the coast was one of the most challenging of the trip, but also one of the best. It began simply enough with a twenty mile cruise southeast along the river valley, but then rose steeply as we cycled east toward Kosmas Pass. In ten miles we gained 3000 feet, broken up by a refreshment break in Geraki about half way to the summit. Looking back to the west, the views were beautiful across the orange groves in the valley and Mount Taigetos towering above them.
The climb would have been significant enough without fighting a fierce headwind that left us feeling like we were literally crawling up the pass, counting our progress in utility poles instead of miles. At one point we were diverted by a flock of goats and their drover angling across the road. It was distressing to see that we weren't really moving much faster than they were.
At long last we reached the summit and enjoyed a well earned break loafing around in the little village there. After recuperating, we headed down the east side, plummeting down the precipitous Dhafnon Gorge. This was a completely exhilarating coast through gorgeous terrain, made even more spectacular by the brilliant displays of broom lining the roadside.
Partway down, we paused for a bit to walk up to Elonis Monastery, another whitewashed cliffhanging marvel. A half-hour later after scrambling up the slopes though it was no closer, and we'd clearly taken a wrong turn somewhere. So, we gave up on the idea, backtracked to our bikes, and about 50 yards later found it staring at us right around the next bend.
We dropped through Leonidio, the town at the base of the pass, and continued on to the sea where we stayed the night in the tiny beach resort of Plaka - once again one of the only guests at our hotel, and dining on a fresh fish feast overlooking the sea.
Goats in the road, on the ascent of Kosmas Pass. The photo doesn't show that we're fighting a 20 mph headwind as we climb, and are barely able to keep up with these guys.
The descent of Kosmas follows Dhafnon Gorge to the sea. This was a beautiful ride, shooting down rapidly through a channel of colorful cliffs and Scotch broom.
