Olympia to Giavola

May 8, 2009

At 65 miles, the ride from Olympia to Gialova was the longest leg of our tour. It was an easy day for making distance though. We followed the main coastal road or quieter side roads where they existed, and enjoyed an almost pancake flat ride with the elevation fluctuating gradually between 300 feet and sea level. It's pretty country but not the most captivating stretch of the Peloponnese, so with relatively few excuses for us to tarry along the way we rolled in to Gialova in mid-afternoon. Gialova is a tiny settlement at the north end of Navarino Bay, another region of significant historical interest. We stayed in Gialova rather than Pylos, the major town on the bay, partly to shorten the day's ride a bit and partly because our beachside hotel sounded so attractive on its website.

Hotel Zoe made a great stopover for two nights. It was of course very quiet this early in the season, and we had the place almost to ourselves. We had arrived early enough in the day to have time to take our Kindles down to the beach for some sunbathing and reading, but were soon chased off by a friendly, damp pack of dogs that kept kicking up the sand or running up to us for petting. Our favorite feature was its restaurant - the dining area was under the trees, just yards from the sandy beach skirting the bay. We had two delicious meals there, enjoying the evening air and watching the dogs still cavorting madly in the sand. Navarino Bay is a very interesting area. It is a fine natural harbor, sheltered from the sea by a lateral offshore island. As about the best harbor in Greece, it has a significant history. In ancient times it was the domain of Nestor, one of the great kings from the time of the Iliad; and more recently it was the site of the Battle of Navarino Bay in 1827 in which the Greeks sank much of the Turkish fleet, leading shortly afterwards to their independence from Turkey.

The bay is guarded at both ends by cliffside castles. At the north is Paleo Kastro (old castle), about four miles from our hotel. Not much remains of it now, but it makes a fine romantic setting and has great views over the bay, its neighboring lagoon, and the tiny but beautiful Voidokilia Bay to the north. Partway down the northern slope, below the ruined fortress, is Nestor's Cave, a location referenced in the Odyssey.

At the south end is Neo Kastro (new castle), on the bluff above, overlooking the southern entrance to the bay. As it's name suggests it's much newer, having been built by the Turks in 1572, and is still in good repair.

Our outing for the day began with a tour of the north - we biked to the lagoon, where we left our bikes to take the loop walk to the castle, down to the cave, and back south again to the lagoon. Afterwards we biked south to Pylos, ate lunch, and visited the south castle before heading back to the hotel for another great supper under the trees and stars. A terrific rest day.

On our way south to Navarino Bay, we stopped to admire this striking church at Kyparissia.

The welcoming committee at Hotel Zoe, Giavola. Later, we were driven from the beach by this guy and his three friends cavorting and kicking up sand. They were still at it that evening, entertaining us at our seaside table.

We took a hike the next morning to Paleo Kastro (the old castle) at the north end of the bay.

Paleo Kastro, the ruined castle at the north end of Navarino Bay.

The lagoon at the north end of Navarino Bay.

The Bay of Voidhokilia, from Paleo Kastro.

The Bay of Voidhokilia, from Nestor's Cave.

Navarino Bay and Neo Kastro, with Sfaktiria (the sheltering island protecting the bay).

Today's ride: 65 miles (105 km)
Total: 412 miles (663 km)

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