September 20, 2023
Day 6: In the groove
It's 7:02, and I'm rolling out the campsite as the sun makes its way above the horizon. By this time I've already packed up camp, walked to the grocery store, purchased a banana in favor of 800-calorie muffins, and have everything I need with me until I return home. The day is chilly but over the course of the sun making its way across the sky, will warm the day by mid-morning.
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I appreciate the work Connellsville has done as a trail town by routing it on one half of a wide street and separating that from oncoming traffic with a divided island. They also have the 4 lean-tos and a large grassy area in which to camp overnight, potable water, and porta-potty. That will definitely drive adventure tourists into town.
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This morning I just like the riding. Cruising along, spinning the pedals, just lost in the peaceful repetitive motion. And just when you think the GAP lulls you into monotony, it jumps out with a viaduct and forces you into even greater views as you cross the valley on old railroad infrastructure, now purpose built for bikes (and pedestrians).
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The sound of the wind as it makes its way through the leaves competes with the constant "crickle"of the tires rolling across the gravel and the rushing water in the river below. My thoughts shift between thinking about riding this once a year, riding all 150 miles in a day, stealth camping into the adjoining woods, ideas about future tours, what kind of breakfast I'm going to get in Ohiopyle, and trying to remember the lyrics to After the Fire's Der Kommissar. And this was just in the space of 3 seconds.
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Ohiopyle is a very charming hamlet in the middle of the mountains. I looked forward to getting more of a breakfast than a banana at the Falls River Market, but they were more focused on lunch and dinner entrees, so I went to the Ohiopyle Coffee Company and ate outside eating their everything breakfast bagel with egg / bacon / ham / cheese and just the right amount of calories to fuel me to my destination. As I'm sitting outside, I'm intercepted by a young man asking about the adventure - questions that weren't the standard "how far you going? Are you by yourself? Do you carry a gun?" He seemed sparked by the adventure aspect of it and seems to take away the desire to start himself. I encourage as much as I can and give suggestions, and then he was off on his roadtrip to other parts of the state, camping in the back of his pickup the entire way.
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Halfway through the mileage for the day I roll through Confluence, which is the largest town between my origin and destination points. I thought about stopping in the Dollar General for resupply but decide to push on to Rockwood, where the ubiquitous dollar store is just off the trail. I cross paths with another cycling (a local) riding a Fargo and he tells me about recent improvements in the trail, the economy and how well it's doing with the trail riders, and confirms my selection of the Dollar General in Rockwood has the easiest access from the trail.
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Once again confirming the Dollar General doesn't carry Clif Bars, so I pick up an electrolyte drink and down that while also consuming a crunchy peanut butter Clif Bar I picked up the previous morning 1 day and 113 miles ago.
As I cross the 1900' or so distance of the Salisbury Viaduct about 58 miles into my day, I'm ready to roll into my destination. It's an all-uphill day (you can see the elevation chart in the map below), and while it's only around a 1% grade, it's still pushing against the force of gravity. I'm glad I put on 10 more miles in yesterdays' ride so today I could roll only 60 instead of 70 miles.
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Approaching Meyersdale, they transformed the old depot into a history museum, with a good selection of working model railroads. I don't know if model railroading is dying, but to see the detailed work that model railroaders have put into it really makes me respect their craft. Who doesn't love looking at the created scene in the diorama and the detail and work they have put into making everything in miniature?
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I took my time today, talking to several people, exploring the museums, taking food breaks, so I don't roll into the hotel until around 3:15. There's a large group checking in with me who are unfamiliar, so I get them into the garage, and then sprint upstairs and snag the shower (it's a communal bathroom) and then sit around for an hour until I go off walking in search of dinner. All the private rooms were booked so I had a bunk in the communal bunk room - I figured I may be the only one in there and I was right. After dinner, I lay in the bunk, charge my devices, and watch a movie on Netflix.
I've had a trip free of rain (except for some Sunday overnight but I didn't get wet) and now rain is coming in thanks to Tropical Storm Ophelia. I make plans to put on extra mileage Thursday and Friday so I have less riding in the rain on Saturday getting to the train.
Today's ride: 60 miles (97 km)
Total: 388 miles (624 km)
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