Day 4: Big State, Big Climbs

August 22, 2024

Now that we’re in Montana, here’s the map of the current section (border to Helena): Border to Helena, MT

Day 4 stats:

Distance: 108km

Climbing: 1686m

Bears: 0

Ice Cream: 0

The dew had settled thickly on our site in Eureka so despite no rain we packed up very wet tents. We were on the road before the other bikepackers on the site had left their tents.

We knew it would be a day of big climbs, one of about 900m and another of close to 600, but it started off with some picturesque wooded hills and then classic farmland.

Looking up at the road as it curved upwards I saw that my Garmin reported that we had 8890m of climbing left in this section (border to Helena) which we plan to cover in five or six days. That’s the elevation of Mount Everest from sea level.

Another interesting comparison is that this entire route (Banff to the Mexican border) is the same distance as the Tour de France, but without the domestiques, team cars and vans, daily physical therapy, fans, or prize money. I’ll have to look up how the climbing compares.

The climbing started in a lush forest but after a few hours seemed to suddenly transition to an arid, high-alpine environment where we stopped for lunch at the top of the first big climb of the day. A very long descent saw us lose 400m and pass through ponderosa forest and then a dry gulch that felt like the set of an old western movie where the stagecoach is ambushed. The landscapes were stunning and different again from everything up to this point.

The second big climb was 575m over about 25km. We both found this to be a hard, steady grind, and demoralizing at times. But we kept spinning and took many breaks, and were rewarded with a beautiful high alpine lake. There was a campground but we had our sights set on one a little further. A fast and rocky descent took us to another beautiful lake, but slightly disappointingly many of the campsites were occupied. Fortunately, there were some that weren’t suitable for RVs so we were in luck. It was early enough that we had time wash up and do laundry, and enjoy some glorious afternoon sunshine with a great view. There were loons calling on the lake - it’s been a long time since I heard that call. Another big dinner and stretching, and our 8pm bedtime rolled around quickly.

Today's ride: 108 km (67 miles)
Total: 476 km (296 miles)

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