Day 29: Indiana Pass

September 16, 2024

Highest Point on the Route

Distance: 80km

Climbing: 1926m

Today was a harder day. We knew the forecast had a chance of rain which wasn’t a great combination with the route going over the highest pass and heading deeper into the wilderness.

More than just us fuelling up for Indiana Pass

The rain started about two hours into our ride and kicked off multiple breaks to adjust layers and rain gear. It’s a challenge to keep the moisture from the outside out without sweating so much you get soaked from the inside. A few times we got quite cold and a few degrees colder, or worse wind/rain/snow and it would have shifted to a survival situation. We definitely didn’t stop to take many pictures today which is a shame as even what we saw through the clouds was some of the nicest scenery we’ve had in Colorado yet.

We climbed a continuous 1200m to 3646m which is an altitude record for us, the highest point on the route, and the biggest continuous climb, but instead of just dropping back down the other side we bumped around between 3000 and 3500m for a long time once we reached the high point. Along the way we went by the Summitville Mine Superfund (environmental cleanup) site.

Looking happier than we felt. Summit of Indiana Pass with more weather coming and a while to spend at that altitude before descending.

By the time we finally descended into Platoro we were ready to stop for the night despite only having logged 80km, our shortest day distance-wise so far. There’s a lodge here but it’s yet another unusual place. Walking in, the service had a different vibe. It took me a few minutes to realize what it reminded me of, but it came to me: it was like being on the set of the TV Show Schitts Creek.

We have to try every type of accommodation. Still no yurt yet.

The cafe service was unusual in that you order at the front desk and anything you need you go ask rather than being waited on. They also charge for a glass of water and for wifi (at crazy rates: we’ll just wait for cell service somewhere else tomorrow).

Our accommodations for the night consists of an old Airstream (1970’s maybe?). The variety of places we’ve stayed is amazing, and I think there’s at least one more wacky one waiting for us in New Mexico.

The interior of the Airstream was surprisingly nice, until we took it over.

On the climb today one of the people we met a few days ago, who we thought was well ahead of us, caught up with us. His story was a funny (maybe not for him) cautionary tale about counterfeit product on Amazon. Quad-Lock is one of, if not the best mounts for holding a phone on a bike. He ordered one on Amazon rather than directly from the company and it turned out to be a fake. It failed and his phone fell off on a rocky descent. He didn’t know where so he continued to Del Norte and borrowed a motorcycle to go back. Unfortunately it wasn’t street legal and he got a $100 fine just leaving town and had to turn around. He borrowed another and went back but didn’t find his phone. So, he lost his phone, lost a day, and got a fine, all for a purchase that probably cost $10 less than the real thing.

Tomorrow should see us cross the border into New Mexico, and have another big climbing day, although in smaller increments rather than the monster climb we had at the start of today.

Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 3,268 km (2,029 miles)

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