November 18, 2022
The Song of the Little Cement Road
Uthai Thani to Pai Khiao
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We are in that proverbial middle of nowhere, Thailand. Of course, the people who live here don't think they are nowhere. They know exactly where they are and they call it home. We are invading aliens. I say this because the looks on everyone's face as we pass are looks of wonder, shock, dumbfoundment. They can't believe their eyes. If it's a group of people sitting together, I hear, "Farang". It's not derogatory in any way. One person sees us first and immediately alerts the others that there are farang - foreigners - on bikes. And they all stop what they are doing and look. Usually they wave or shout hello. The look on their faces is precious and suggests that they probably have never seen a foreigner riding a bicycle on these roads.
We smile and say hello in their language and a welcoming wide smile spreads across their faces and mixes with their looks of wonder. It's a beautiful look - beautiful gentle people.
We are on small rural roads, routes that no other cyclists would probably ever consider because other cyclists are interested in going faster than we are. We would never find our way through if it wasn't for Pocket Earth routing us. There is really nothing much out here other than rice fields but my passion in travel has always been to go where no other tourists go - to be so far out that no one speaks English. In such places my comfort zone may end but I have found that that is where adventure begins.
The great travel writer, Jeff Greenwald once wrote, "We go where we need to go, then try to figure out what we're doing there."
I guess I needed to come way out here on these little roads where it is profoundly peaceful.
I could mention that Thailand has probably paved more rural roads, some no more than field roads, than any other country and it's no doubt because of Siam Cement Group. I could mention that Siam Cement Group is one of the biggest companies in the world and guess what, the King of Thailand owns the majority shares. I could mention that there is corruption galore with the royals and the Thai government and thus with Siam Cement Group but why would I mention such things when the cement I'm riding on is taking me so far out into the countryside. Without these little cement roads there would be mud, lots of mud. It would ruin how wonderful it is out here if I were to utter probable collusion between these three entities, so I won't.
I will mention how poor the people are, way out here, and the reason why I still consider Thailand to be a third world country. A lot of people are living as if they are rough camping. Many have something resembling old houses but they cook over fires outside. Often the houses have gaping holes in their roofs and I've seen a lot of them missing entire walls. People basically live on wood platforms and I can't imagine how hard it would be to live with disease carrying mosquitoes and rats, lots of rain, not to mention possibly not the most nutritious diet. It's shocking that a huge proportion of the population of Thailand are extremely poor. Yes, this should be mentioned.
I could mention all the dogs lying about on these little cement roads like beached walrus' and how I always wonder, as I zig between and zag around them, if I will be bitten again. I might mention that I have been bitten by dogs in Thailand twice and gone through the rabies series of shots twice but if I dwell on those previous experiences it might ruin the flavor of my story of these beautiful little roads. Let sleeping dogs lie, right?
I could mention all the squashed snakes I've been seeing but why would I do that? Why mention the carnage on these little roads (lots of frogs too) when there is life all around me. I'm hearing life everywhere, from a variety of frogs croaking to dozens of species of birds singing. In fact I've never seen or heard so many birds in my life. I ride with the same wonderment on my face as those Thais have on theirs when they first see us. My head is constantly swiveling to see this bird or that or to find out the owner of such an interesting and beautiful birdsong and a smile is plastered on my face for long stretches.
I could mention the headwind we have had this entire trip. We were so excited about going north for the first time ever which meant the sun wouldn't be in our eyes or blasting our skin. However we hadn't considered that the prevailing winds this time of year in Thailand might be from the north. But why would I mention the slight headwind? It's just a breeze in our faces. It's hardly been a problem and in fact we have welcomed the breeze because it's been cooling us a bit. The slight breeze bobs the tall grasses that crowd the shoulders of the little roads making them even more narrow. Their seed-head shadows dance on the cement as I ride over them.
I shouldn't mention how hot it's been either. No, actually it's not the heat but the humidity which has been 98% every morning when we set out from our guest house bungalow around 6AM. How is it even possible to be such high humidity if it isn't raining?! Our mirrors fog up. My glasses fog up! But my mind does not fog over and instead is excited. Why would I mention heat and humidity? We can't do anything about it. It comes with the territory and maybe is why all the birds sing their hearts out and dogs are dead tired sleeping dogs, and live snakes, we have not seen, thrive and frogs happily croak in the rice paddies, rice as far as we can see, life-giving rice and people waving, smiling, welcoming and the lovely music coming from their radios they play loudly in their homes which makes me linger on my bike slowing to a near standstill as I soak in as many notes as possible before I pedal on.
And the King lives without humidity and happily counts his profits from work he has never done. But why would I mention him? How did he sneak into this narrative?
Yes, I needed to come here so I could try to figure out what I'm doing here. So far all I can really say is that I'm really glad I'm here on these little cement roads, far from nowhere.
lovebruce
Today's ride: 27 miles (43 km)
Total: 170 miles (274 km)
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2 years ago
2 years ago
That's a keeper!
I've been listening to a book about silence and last night's chapter had a fair bit about the experience of knowing that is not limited by thoughts, words, feelings, or any other 'typical' ways of knowing.
I can imagine many moments of this type of knowing, as you ride along the little cement roads past kind people that are surprised to see you.
2 years ago