Kosamphi to Tak

November 25, 2022

Time Waits for No One - Rain Waits for No One

It was raining when we woke up. For the first time we were confronted with riding in the rain, which, of course, we didn't want to do. We had no breakfast material either so we couldn't take up some time with eating. In an effort to kill some time we pried some of the clock's numbers from where they had fallen onto the floor, breaking some of them in the process. Then we stuck them and the pieces back onto the wall in the vicinity of the clock. They were Thai numbers, I guess, so we didn't know what was what anyway. But it does look better with more things stuck to the wall.

After that time passed the rain lightened and we decided we had to get going. It was 8AM. There was a nice Thai couple across from our bungalow who were sitting in their covered veranda watching us as we put our panniers on our bikes. They looked on in admiration but also disbelief that we had ridden from Ayutthaya. They spoke no English but they were super friendly. They asked where we were going, which, in Thai is, "Bye nye?" It means literally, Go where? I said, "Bye Tak." which implies without having to say as much, that, "We are going to Tak." Now, Thai is a tonal language so a word can have a completely different meaning depending on the tone used. I have no idea what tone Tak has or if there is even a word before Tak like, town of Tak which would be Muang Tak. All I know is that there is a town down the road, a fairly large town, called Tak. So, I said we were going to Tak.

The woman obviously didn't understand what I had said. I don't know how she couldn't understand something which to me seemed so simple because you just put it in context, if I had said something wrong. It's the obvious town to go to. I bet they were going to Tak!! But she looked at the guy she was with with questions on her face and the guy said to her, "Bye Tak!" I was so happy he understood and basically said to her, "Honey, what's the problem? They are going to Tak." I loved the exchange. Thais have a great sense of humor and I think that guy got it and it was quite funny the way he responded to his partner. She seemed even more confused so I said it again, "Bye Tak." Whatever.

Our resort cat. It's as if this is her leaf collection she's showing.

By then the rain had largely dissipated so we took off. At first the road had similar views as yesterday with lots of big rice growing areas before large hills to the west. But then it got more wild, the road narrowed and we were back right along the Ping River. There was a slight hill and a cleft chiseled out of solid rock which was something new for us. Everything was dank and dripping just like the way we were from sweat again. The Ping was so full and wide that it very much reminded me of the Mekong. There were many large sandbars and I could see how incredibly high the river had gotten recently by all the debris lodged up in trees.

A pretty poor area. Some of the homes built long ago had no windows. Back when they were built, possibly right after the Second World War, glass was a luxury item.

I bet 90% of these old houses are inhabited by very old women. When they pass on, the inheritors inevitably tear the houses down and build new ones.

Thais love the United States and often we see Statue of Liberty themes here and there. Here is an actual Statue of Liberty.

Besides a single shrine built by the sides of roads people also put up spirit houses on pedestals in certain areas next to roads.

What's strange to us is that the spirit houses are never touched or maintained in any way after the person puts them there. I guess they are supposed to go back to the earth over time. They often are a broken jumble mess. It's hard for westerners to understand.

We were fairly high above the river when we came to an area where there were lots of fish farms. We could look down on large tanks along the bank of the river filled with thousands of large fish. We see those fish grilling all over Thailand usually covered in salt crystals. I'll take a photo of them the next time I see them roasting. We have never bought one because they are just too big for the two of us but we see parties of several Thais at outdoor tables devouring these fish all the time. Tilapia? No idea. They are Tilapia shaped.

There are two coconuts on the edge of the tank and one is sprouting.

We crossed little bridges over tributaries to the Ping and rode alongside many promenades with shored up riverbanks of riprap, lots of stones, presumably placed there to prevent erosion. I'm sure it does provide a purpose of sorts in certain areas but for the most part the thousands of promenades along rivers in Thailand are cover for the wholesale extraction of sand. For one, the Siam Cement Group is in constant need of lots of sand.

One of the many tributaries emptying into the Ping River.

Rarely is anything maintained in Thailand, albeit it is hard in a tropical country. The growth of vegetation is astoundingly fast.

The company building the promenade might have promised the community exercise equipment too. But nothing is maintained.

Soon all the riprap will be completely covered by greenery.

We had been following such a small road that it seemed like a bike path but then out of the blue we did see a bike path that brought us into even more remote countryside. It didn't go very far and soon we were back on the road we had been following. It was nice while it lasted.

Then we crossed a scary big bridge to the east side of the Ping and we were suddenly in Tak. Ambling through side alleys we finally located the hotel we had decided on earlier, Suansin Garden Resort Hotel. I told Andrea that I bet anything it was started by a Swede named Swanson. It's not beyond possibility at all. It was a rather huge hotel, which, on Google Maps shows that they served breakfast. But the price we were told for our room was lower than I expected so I asked about breakfast and the receptionist said, "Breakfast is coffee and Milo." That's about what I expected but I acted like it was pure gold and thanked her profusely. She must have thought I was nuts but I am here to entertain the locals.

We unloaded all of our panniers into our room as quickly as we could and immediately beat it over to a khao soi restaurant Andrea had found earlier. We were quick because the skies were threatening and, khao soi is a lunch item and so popular that they often run out of their batch. Khao soi is a northern Thai soup/curry. It involves a little bit of chicken swimming in a sea of spices and coconut cream. It's originally from Burma and Burmese food has a touch of India which is why khao soi is full of spices. There is also a layer of noodles on the bottom and some dry toasted noodles on top. A plate of preserved greens, raw shallots and a lime always come with the bowl of khao soi to add to the unusual flavor. Khao soi is a real taste treat and because it is hard to find and only in northern Thailand we ride like the wind in front of a thunderstorm to find it. And we did find it and it was excellent. Good that we hurried because the pot was almost empty when we got there.

Then we flew back home even faster because the black clouds were even angrier looking. We hadn't been in our room more than three minutes when the skies opened up. There was a brief lull and then it rained even harder. We settled into our room and made a list of what we needed at the market. We needed bananas, oranges, maybe a mango and peanuts (Thai peanuts are great). We had secured a papaya on the road, the only papaya we've seen in a long time. We can't figure out why we aren't seeing more papayas.

Main street of Tak. A classic Thai main street.

We also needed to eat dinner and the main market area is always a good place to find dinner. Sure enough we found a nice man who had several large pots of curries. We both had gang kiew-wan (green curry) over not rice this time but wide noodles. It was excellent. Both meals cost us just over a dollar total. We have been living in Thailand for less than $10 per person, per day but that will rise a little bit in Chiang Mai. Bigger cities cost more due to higher room rates as well as all the food temptations. I will probably gain weight in Chiang Mai.

No, the guy behind Andrea is not throwing up.

We raced through the market getting everything on our list and then beat it back to Suansin because there was a tremendously dark ominous cloud heading our way. But we made it without a drop of rain on us. Another wonderful day of riding a bike in Thailand. And I'm having a good feeling about Tak too.

lovebruce

Today's ride: 24 miles (39 km)
Total: 325 miles (523 km)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	3

Ron SuchanekYou're not only entertaining the locals, you're entertaining the rabble out here in Cycleblaze land.
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2 years ago

Brent HirakDescription of foods and tastes set me off on my own journey
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2 years ago

Bruce LellmanTo Brent HirakThe food in Thailand is so great! I'm getting fat.
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2 years ago