Ban Hong to Lamphun

December 1, 2022

The bungalow we left this morning was the nicest of the trip so far. It was quite new, immaculate and besides that it was the best laid out bungalow of the trip. It was tasteful and the furnishings were slightly higher quality than normal. We loved it so much. I wanted to take it with us so we could be in THAT bungalow every night of the rest of our trip. But, it was absolutely in the middle of nothing. There wasn't even another structure anywhere nearby let alone a store or restaurant. We didn't really care though. We have been eating so well that we gladly went without dinner. Well, we had peanuts, oranges and a Cliff Bar for dinner so it wasn't like starvation. This resort was quite an investment for the owners and I wonder if they will ever make it profitable. I sure hope so because we want such places to survive. It would be so sad if it went into decline like so many things in Thailand do.

Andrea gave Ban Lung Resort a good review on Google Maps and we were on the road by 6:30. It was again sort of cool @ 74F and the humidity down to only 91%. The road (106) was under construction for a few miles and we rode on hard-packed clay and sometimes on the first layer of fresh asphalt before they were letting cars drive on it. The dawn light is a most dangerous time to be seen so we did everything to keep off the adjacent main road that had no shoulder and a cutaway dropoff of several feet. Eventually the road turned back to the normal road where construction (widening) hadn't happened yet. By then the sun was starting to come up.

Alms for the monks in the early morning.

The 106 was again no fun so we rode without stopping for much.

This might be a good place to tell you about the condition of my butt but especially about my profound lack of wisdom concerning bike saddles. On our first two bike trips in S.E. Asia I used a saddle that was kind of a cheap crappy thing that was very spongy. It didn't matter if it got soaked, it could take anything. And my butt was a happy butt. So, then why would I change things up for the third bike trip in S.E. Asia, you might ask. The answer is because I am eminently unwise. I was curious about other saddles so I bought a Brooks saddle because of all the testimonials by Brooks' devotees. I had a hard time with my Brooks saddle, or, I should say my butt had a hard time with it. The problem was probably because of my unwisdom is deeper than you can imagine; I hadn't broken in the saddle before we went on our trip. After 1500 miles it looked and felt about the same as the day I bought it, which if I want to sell it, is a good thing! But I actually love my Brooks saddle because it is so beautiful. Looks can be everything! I can ride 20 miles on it just fine but then I have problems. It might get broken in someday too but I wasn't about to test that theory out on this trip so in my incredible unwisdom I bought a new saddle, a Terry because it was on sale!!! Are you starting to grasp how unwise I am? A Terry saddle doesn't get broken in, one's butt has to break in. Well, so far my butt has not broken in. The best thing I can say is that now, after more than 400 miles, my butt is doing better with this Terry saddle than when we started but it's not perfect, yet. I have confidence that it will slowly get better. At least I don't have saddle sores or chaffing or anything like that so maybe I am lucky. Things could be much worse and I actually like the Terry saddle. I like all of my saddles! I just wish I had gone back to my spongy, crappy cheap thing that didn't bother me one bit for more than 5000 miles and that laughed at rain. Maybe someday I will acquire some saddle wisdom or wisdom in general butt don't hold your breath on that.

This is why we have to keep going everyday because if we stand still vegetation will quickly overtake us.

This is an odd sign because the Thais burn the forest floor every winter, thus creating problems for the wildlife. If they wouldn't burn everything the deer would be less likely to run into traffic.

It was getting more and more populated as we approached Lamphun. In Pa Sang we stopped briefly to ogle at the beautiful temple right across the street from the main market. I checked the market for the illusive papaya. I have no idea why they are so hard to find this trip. Again, no luck finding one and we were off to Lamphun.

The Pa Sang Central Market is right across the street from the most important temple in town, Wat Pa Sang Ngam.

The beautiful central market in Pa Sang.

The shrine and spirit house for Pa Sang Central Market.

Incense and eggs for sale in the market.

A classic Thai noodle soup restaurant on the right. We see dozens of these every day. Each person makes noodle soup slightly different but the one thing in common is that they are all really delicious. The place on the left makes some little things that go with noodle soup. Often places work in conjunction with each other and you can buy from both and pay for it all at one or the other.

Lots of temples along the way to dazzle us.

The early morning weather has become much more tolerable and we were making really good time, too good because we only needed to go 23 miles to the hotel we were shooting for and it was too early when we crossed the moat and entered through one of the ancient gates of Lamphun. So, what to do to kill some time? Coffee of course. We hadn't had any yet. At a cute little wooden coffee house with stools and a bar overlooking the moat we had the best coffee of the trip so far. They have been developing coffee growing in Northern Thailand in recent years and I think they now produce some of the best in the world. We lingered over our cups and then ambled the four more blocks to the hotel where they let us check in at 10:30.

Jomyut Coffee overlooking the moat surrounding the old part of Lamphun, Thailand.

It feels really good to have arrived in Lamphun. It is a very cute smallish northern Thai town with lots of history and a big beautiful temple, among others. It feels good to have ridden eight days in a row to get here and now we are only 20 miles from Chiang Mai. It feels good that we were able to endure the heat and humidity and now things will get a bit better up here in the north. It feels good to be in the north of Thailand where there is a definite feeling for an artistic way of life and to surround oneself with beauty. This is true of the north and always has been. The arts and crafts abound in the north and it is also reflected in their beautiful temples.

Our hotel in Lamphun, the Thaen Thong Hotel. Big spacious room with lots of windows. Again, around $14.

We will stay in Lamphun for two nights and maybe three since our reservation in a Chiang Mai hotel starts on Dec. 4th. I plan on some eating adventures while here in Lamphun.

lovebruce

Today's ride: 23 miles (37 km)
Total: 472 miles (760 km)

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Ron SuchanekThe saddle issue is perplexing, and tough to know if one will work for you. Jen had one she loved and it finally wore out before Undaunted Porridge, and of course they discontinued it. So she had to get another one, which is acceptable but not as good.
I was lucky enough that my Brooks saddle and I bonded immediately, After 11 years and thousands of miles it's as comfortable as ever, but I just noticed that the leather is begining to crack in a couple of places. I hope I can get another 2 or 3 years out of it.
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1 year ago

Bruce LellmanTo Ron SuchanekGood news! Now it is December 20th and my butt has broken in nicely and the Terry saddle feels better than any I've ever had. I might have found The One. I had always heard that Terry saddles were good.
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1 year ago