Day 15: Montreal to St Jean sur Richelieu: They're Off

July 17, 2015

We got up quite early, to advance our plan of making some quick breakfast and zooming over the bridge and down the trail with the trailer and gear, Amelia and Evelyn to follow and rejoin us by car.

Of course, it is not possible to prepare food without being detected by kids, so I made extra examples of my trademark Egg Mc Montreal Bagels. The egg part did not live up to Amelia's specifications, being fried and not scrambled, but I was able to dispose of the surpluses with the less discriminating Evelyn and Joseph.

We set off then, with waves and cheers from the whole group. It was the first time actually pulling the trailer, and I could ell immediately that the drag from the two extra wheels was significant. With no kids in there, but a certain load of toys and snacks, it already felt like a bit of a haul.

The width of the trailer, which essentially doubled the width of the bike, was the next issue. As we took to sidewalks and city streets, heading for the bridge access, there was no sneaking by pedestrians and cars. The drill was often to get off and carefully walk the rig by them.

Only because we had studied this carefully in past years, we found our way the bike path portion of the Jacques Cartier bridge. However that did not at all mean that we were home free. Yes, the bikeway is totally isolated from the cars, and yes, it totally prevents you from committing suicide by jumping into the river, but... the pathway is narrow and the two way bike traffic is fast moving. 200 pounds of bike and rider hurtling down from the top of a bridge is something to watch out for, especially if you are grinding up in a double wide trailer. Leading with my bad shoulder in this situation was something I was not too happy about!

This looks well marked. It is the cycle access to the bridge. But if you do not know exactly where to look for this, you can wander in traffic for hours, searching.

Symbols of old and new Montreal. Ironically the big building is the CBC - our national broadcaster and presumably culturally sensitive. Actually the church is blocks away - this is just a trick camera angle.

Molson beer is famous here, as is the Molson family. They once owned the Montreal Canadiens hockey team.

Cycle speed barriers are necessary, to slightly slow insane cycle speeders.

No danger of jumpingbut also locked in with cycle speeders

This dome was the US pavilion at the 1967 World's Fair.

Cycle speed barrier ripped out by the roots

On the other side of the bridge is Longeuil, a suburb that through no apparent fault of its own s impossible to navigate through without getting lost. The Route Verte did not help matters by having its first sign knocked askew in a way that made it totally ambiguous which way to go. The second sign we found was clear about where "Route Verte #1" was, but it did not indicate the direction. So we wrongly headed North for a fair bit, before we got fed up and pulled out the GPS. Only the GPS, from that point, could guide us properly, for about 5 km. After that, the signs became clear and it was clear sailing for the rest of the day. This is about how we remembered it from before - it's all swell, except for Longeuil, which can waste you hours.

Also, until you hit the main cycle way, the bike path arrangements are very miscellaneous. Sometimes it's an on road bike lane, sometimes an on sidewalk bike lane, and sometimes it's two way bike traffic an on road lane. In the last case, the two way bike traffic may have poor or missing lines painted on the road, or few or missing pilons. In no case, though, are you just thrown out there on the road.

Sabrina found us easily enough in the riverside town of Chambly. The river supports water sport, and a vacation like atmosphere, with numerous restaurants with outside terraces. Sabrina cautioned that the children could implode if not fed immediately, so we chose a restaurant that looked fast. Actually it was extremely fast and the children did not implode (much). The place featured chicken fingers, burgers, and the like, and I was pleased to see that their fries were properly greasy Quebec standard issue (the best tasting there is, outside of Belgium - I understand.) Unfortunately, all the other items were chosen to be the lowest grade the management could think of. The prices did not match the quality either, but Dodie consolled me with the key point - they were fast. Fast food - good idea - maybe one could start a business empire on that basis!

Now the kids said goodbye to their Mom without fuss, and eagerly took to the trailer. The path from Chambly is perfect - normally paved, and following a canal, so this was easy cycling. Only thing, though Dodie did have two large rear panniers most of the load seemed to be with me. So Dodie, normally the Turtle, took off like a Jackrabbit. I gamely struggled along behind, but getting more and more tired. I tried a ploy like stopping to look at an excavator at work - normally an Amelia and Evee favourite - but their response was "It's great, but go Grandpa Steve, Go!"

Just to review the general geography of where we are cycling, there is the large Lake Champlain in New York State, to the south. The Richelieu river flows from there north into Canada, and ultimately to the St Lawrence river. The St Lawrence is the outlet to the sea of the five massive interior Great Lakes, and is easily as important to Canada as the Rhine is to Germany.

The Richelieu River is quite large and fast moving, and must have some rapids or other impediments to navigation, because it is paralleled by the Chambly Canal, at least between Chambly and St Jean. The canal is what is offering us our main pleasant cycle way.

There are a number of locks along the canal, and these provided entertainment as we watched one boat descend deep into the hole as the water left the lock, and other boats rising, as water entered a lock.

We arrived at our hotel, the Auberge Harris, - sort of. It was on the other side of the canal, and we had to go several kms beyond until we could cross and double back. The double back was on a busy, no shoulder road, so we took to the sidewalk. I was on high alert not to run the trailer wheel off the six inch high sidewalk, which could have thrown us toward the oncoming traffic. Fortunately, I am of course an "expert" and no such thing happened!

Auberge Harris has had some favourable mentions on Crazyguy, and we were immediately gratified to see many of the Bienvenue Cyclistes signs around. They were as good as their signs and immediately dispatched someone who grabbed up our bikes and trailer and stowed them in a large locked courtyard containing a large tent filled with bike racks, and many other bikes. We picked up their brochure, and it was all about cycling in the region. Not just general advertising hype, but usable maps and route suggestions!

Our room turned out to be huge, clean, and well appointed.Amelia and Evee watched the TV for a while, something they are not accustomed to.Then we made a delivery order from "St Hubert BBQ". This business has been around this region since we were kids. In the day, they had a radio jingle that has always stuck with us: "Ding a ling a ling, du poulet chez vous. Put, put, put, St Hubert BBQ". This refers to the fact that you could order chicken by phone, and it would be delivered in their signature yellow VW beetles (put, put, put!). Well now, their slogan has changed.It is now "Clic, clic, clic que desirez-vous", referring to the fact that you can order online. And there is no "put, put, put". Presumably your chicken now arrives in a silent Prius.

Anyway, the kids ate theirs out on our balcony - luxury. Then Amelia and I went to the pool, while Evee chose an elegant hot bath. Boy, this cycle touring sure is tough!

Our route today:

Chambly is south east of Montreal, on the Richelieu River

Chambly to St Jean is a route along a canal by the Richelieu. Continue south from St Jean and you come to Lake Champlain, in New York State.

Our first Route Verte sign, twisted by construction and with an ambiguous message

Cycling is big here. In this case, five tandems carried blind riders on the rear.

Poor road marking for two way bike travel into traffic. Drivers often strayed into our lane

Here there was at least one helpful pylon.

The kids get ready to go, by the Richelieu River.

Evee displays some of her special trail markings

Sorry Marius, this place did not live up to standards, except for speed.

A duck! Unfortunately wildlife will not be a main focus of this tour segment. No moose here!

The trailer is outfitted with special treat cups!

Many moderately upscale houses have been built along the canal.

Cycling support - in this case a GPS unit loaded with the route

The kids get ready for a luxury ride to teir room

The hotel brochure features many many maps and route suggestions

Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 209 km (130 miles)

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