Day 9: To Midway Campground, Everglades: Swamped

January 13, 2014

We were back at the truck stop early, after packing up tent that was dripping wet. There was no rain, but dew and condensation here are phenomenal. It is always interesting returning to an active tourist area (or almost any area) when the strangeness has warn off for you and the crowds have not arrived. Then you see the mundane preparations and a little more of the inner spirit of the place.We noticed this with pleasure in St Stephens Square, in Vienna. This time, at the Pilot Plaza, was not quite as great. Here was a man with a pressure washer, blasting the pavement and everything else in sight, covering our bikes with a thick mist. There, another man strolled the perimeter, spraying herbicide.On this side, the churro lady was firing up her deep fryer, and there the money machine was being loaded for a day's business.Most truckers were still asleep in their big rigs with the engines running.It's amazing how they can back them in straight and so tight to each other!

The next operation after Gator Park, had even bigger and more boats.

With two Subway sandwiches in hand, we once more set out into the Everglades.We passed the now familiar Gator Park, and soon the Everglades Safari Park. This one had even bigger and more powerful boats than the last, and over a dozen of them.We shrugged, and pedalled on. In a few more km we came upon the Buffalo Tiger air boat site. Buffalo Tiger was the last hereditary chief of the Miccosukee, and is still living, at 93. The site is on the north or Indian side of the canal and offers a service started by Buffalo Tiger (who's father was Tiger Tiger).

We went inside an had a chat with a young man behind the counter. We were immediately struck by his gentle politeness, easy manner, and willingness to answer all our questions. None of the questions were about air boat rides since we had earlier decided against it. we bought a book "Everglades Wildguide", and got ready to leave. Then we looked at each other.This could be our preferred low key guide. Back in we went, and soon were hooked up with Ernie Redwing, an equally adorable, earnest, and knowledgeable young man. At the moment we were the only customers, so we went out with Ernie on our own.

The boat swerves quickly through passages in the floating mud and vegetation and it seemed could pass safely over anything that was not actually a large island. If Dodie was using her native observation skills to spot gators yesterday (and today), these young men are true pros. we soon stopped in a sort of bare water patch and Ernie went "thock thock". This attracted a fairly large gator that he identified as a female. When asked how you tell, he gave us a detailed rundown of all the signs.

For every one of our subsequent 100 questions, he was the same font of absolute knowledge, delivering the information with care, as if we were the first to ever ask. And we asked (and asked): what are those trees, how did you get these posts to stand up in the water, are there any food plants in the swamp, how many people once lived in this village, why did they leave, and on and on.

So e of the questions and answers are set out below. For now Ernie offered proof about the sex of the gator, casually remarking There is one of her babies. That he spotted this was remarkable. Soon he said And there are some of the others. Indeed he had spotted another half dozen of the little devils.

Buffalo Tiger, the last hereditary chief.

Ernie then went over Mom, talking about her vision and hearing, tongue, hunting times and food, territory, and so many other aspects. Then he fired up the boat and zoomed over to another gator's area. Have a look at the shots from there.

These coons at the abandoned village are very tame!

Sleeping hut. Platform is off the ground for good reason.

The Miccosukee flag. Never having signed a treaty, they claim sovereignty.

Just to give an idea of some of the things we learned, here are a few of the Q and As

Q The flag on the boat looks kind of like the German flag?

A Well sort of. You read it from the bottom. The yellow is for the rising sun and the beginning of life, and the East. The red symbolizes the north and the present and the middle of life. The black stands for the west where the sun sets and the spirit goes after death. The white is for new beginnings and life.

Q Do you get any benefits from the Micosukee casino.

A No, I am actually an Apache. My father came here years ago and was raised by Buffalo Tiger.

Q Is there anything edible in the plants out here?

A The base of the salt grass shaft is edible for about 1/4 inch, after that it is too tough.

Q Are the Indian crafts in the gift shop authentic?

A Ernie went through each item. About half are from the gator farm, and a third are made by an Indian craftsman in Wisconsin. A few are local and the rest are fake.

Q How long have you been doing this?

A Since I was 8

We got back on the road, now knowing a lot more about gators. The road runs right beside a canal for its 2hole length, and this water is a real hotbed of life. We began to spot gators, in the water and on the bank. At first we would call out when we saw one, and maybe take a photo. But when our total went over about 50, we got a lot more casual about it. Finally we had spotted over 100! Almost more dramatic than the gators were the birds. The swamp was alive with Egret, Ibis, Stork type long billed wading birds. As we approached, they always spooked and burst into the air. So our progress was marked by a lot of flapping and splashing. In the water we could also see fish, mostly with pointy noses, sort of garfish like. And occasional turtles would plop into the water as we passed.

We continued through this very active landscape until Midway Campground. We decided to turn in, because the site was very nicely set up with some tent only sites, and had flush toilets, though no shower or hot water or power. We knew the next site, Monument Lake in fact had nothing at all. The campsite hosts here were Canadian, so we had fun talking about Canada for a while. I also expressed satisfaction that unlike at Monument, the tent would be safe from gators here. Well no, was the reply, There are actually gators in that pond, and one came out of the bush and walked across here the other day. It's interesting how they walk up on all fours with straight legs. Yeah, interesting!

Since we had stopped early, we were setting out our camp in the full sun. It was a really wilting experience. The thermometer peaked this day at over 42!

Also at the campsite we met Cristine and Norman, honeymooning from Dresden and car camping across the South. They came over to ask if we had gaz to fit their Primus stove. Hah! We sure wished we did. They found a Coleman cannister to borrow, but of course that does not fit. So they borrowed some gasoline and tried it in their stove, a multifuel Primus. It sputtered and spat, but did manage to heat some water, which they graciously shared with us.

There was little time for musing by the gasoline fire, as the skeeters now came out and chased us in to the tent. They laughed at the 100% Deet we had brought. Under bright stars, we lay in there and sweated.

Next shots are what we saw on the road to Midway.

Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 361 km (224 miles)

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